Prediction of the characteristics of a tsunami wave near the Tohoku coastline

Numerical SWASH modelling

Master thesis (2019)

Authors

J.J. Roubos Civil Engineering & Geosciences

Contributors

Bas Hofland Hydraulic Structures and Flood Risk - CEG (mentor)
J.D. Bricker Hydraulic Structures and Flood Risk - CEG (graduation committee member)
Marcel Zijlema Environmental Fluid Mechanics - CEG (graduation committee member)
Miguel Esteban Waseda University (graduation committee member)
Faculty
Civil Engineering & Geosciences, Civil Engineering & Geosciences
Copyright: © 2019 Jochem Roubos
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Published Date

02-07-2019

Language

English

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Faculty

Civil Engineering & Geosciences

Abstract

To calculate tsunami forces on coastal structures, the wave type in front of the coast is of great importance. Hence this paper aims to find ways to predict the type of tsunami wave breaking. Based on literature review, video footage, analytical reasoning and numerical modelling (SWASH) it can be concluded that both the continental shelf slope (alpha_2) and the bay geometry (beta) have a significant influence on the transformation of a tsunami wave near the coastline. After conducting 1D and 2DH wave simulations, a distinction is made in three types of tsunami waves; a non-breaking front (surging), a breaking front (plunging) and an undular bore breaking front (spilling). Tsunami waves transform into these three wave types for a steep continental shelf, an intermediate sloped continental shelf, and a gentle sloped continental shelf respectively. A new tsunami breaker parameter (xi_tsunami) is proposed to predict the type of wave at the coastline in a quantitative way.

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