Morphological modelling of strongly curved islands

Land reclamations and island coasts often involve strongly curved shorelines, which are challenging to be properly modeled by numerical morphological models. Evaluation of the long term development of these types of coasts as well as their response to storm conditions requires proper representation of the governing physical processes. Not all...

Breakwaters under construction exposed to oblique waves

A new series of physical model tests were conducted to analyse the behaviour of a breakwater core when it becomes exposed to wave attack. The emphasis of this research was on the measured influence of a wide stone grading on both the deformation of a breakwater trunk and the occurring longshore transport. This behaviour was investigated for both...

Preliminary analysis of sand transport measurements at Noordwijk site, North Sea

Massive mining of sand from the middle and lower shoreface (depths of 10-30 m) in large-scale mining and borrow pits will be required in future in many European countries to nourish coastal beaches and dunes in response to increased coastal erosion due to expected sea level rise. The offshore mining of sand will require fundamental knowledge of...

Berm breakwater trunk exposed to oblique waves

Comprehensive three-dimensional model tests with a berm breakwater roundhead and the adjacent trunk section were carried out at the Danish Hydraulic Institute (DHI) and at the Hydraulic & Coastal Engineering Laboratory of Aalborg University (AAU). This paper describes the influence of wave obliquity on the profile shape, on the initiation of...

Berm breakwater structures: Results of berm breakwater tests with special attention to the influence of the rock shape on the longshore transport

The report summaries the results obtained with a berm breakwater attacked by oblique waves. In the tests special attention is given to the influence of the rock shape on the longshore transport. Moreover, the reshaping berm profile and amount of wave overtopping is examined. The tests were performed in a tree-dimensional model in Jan.-Feb. 96'...

Berm breakwaters: Hydraulic response of roundheads and trunks exposed to oblique waves

As a part of the MAST II Berm Breakwater Structures, existing data from conducted laboratory tests have been reanalised. The objective was to evaluate the effect of the longshore transpsort on both the roundhead and trunk, the ht.u,er exposed to both head-on waves and oblique inegular waves varying from 15 to 30 degrees angle of incidence. 3...

Shoreline Change and Strom-Induced Beach Erosion Modeling: A Collection of Seven Papers

This report consists of seven papers dealing with numerical simulation of beach change that were recently published by members of the Coastal Engineering Research Center, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, and colleagues from other organizations. The papers collectively provide an overview of the state of research and engineering...

Gold Coast Beach replenishment program

report 72: The immediate growth of Spinifex vegetation in pumped-in dunes. report 82: The manual on artificial beach nourishment. report 86: The effects of filter cloth in boulder walls. report 89: Seawalls as littoral drift deflectors.

Zandtransporten evenwijdig aan de kust, vergelijking zandtransportformules

Als T.O.W. onderzoek is door het Waterloopkundig Laboratorium een onderzoek uitgevoerd waarbij enkele moderne zandtransportformules zodanig zijn aangepast dat de gecombineerde werking van golven en stroom in rekening kan worden gebracht. Uit dat onderzoek bleek dat de aangepaste White-Ackers formule het beste aansloot bij een serie modelproeven...

Littoral drift in the surf zone

Lecture held at Hydraulic Research Station on the basics of longshore transport calculations.

Overzicht resultaten strandhoofdenonderzoek

De Directie Waterhuishouding en Waterbeweging van de Rijkswaterstaat heeft op 18 juli 1966 het Waterloopkundig Laboratorium de opdracht gegeven een fundamenteel onderzoek in te stellen naar de werking van strandhoofden. Als stuurgroep bij dit onderzoek fungeert de Nederlandse Werkgroep Strandhoofden. De voor het onderzoek noodzakelijke...

One aspect of the dynamics of a coast, partly protected by a row of groynes

A mathematical theory about phenomena that occur if on a coastal area groynes are constructed. The theory is a simplification: it just deals with one aspect. The starting point in the coastal equation of Pelnard-Considère and a linearisation between the transport along the groyne and the size of the 'step' in the coastline at the groyne. The...

The coastal dynamics of sand waves and the influence of breakwaters and groynes

A mathematical description of sand waves along a coast and the effect of blocking structures on this coast, like groynes and breakwaters.

Erosion and accretion along Clatsop Spit

The study area encompasses 18 miles of Oregon coastline known as Clatsop Beach, which lies between the Columbia River south jetty and Tillamook Head, south of Seaside, Oregon. The physical changes (including man-made changes such as jetty construction which was initiated in 1885) that have occurred in the area since 1792 are described and...

Planning and design of low-weir section jetty at Masonboro inlet, North Carolina

A berm and dune project for shore and hurricane protection was recently completed at Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina. A navigation project provides for a channel 14 feet deep and 400 feet wide through Hasonboro Inlet which forms the southern boundary of Wrightsville Beach. It has been found infeasible to maintain the channel by dredging alone...

Littoral processes and the development of shorelines

Basic principles bearing on the nature of beaches and processes that act to modify them are considered in the light of present coastal development demands. A working hypothesis is developed that applies the principle of the conservation of mass to the mechanics of granular- fluid media. This hypothesis appears to have general application to sand...

Nearshore sediment movement - Central California coast

An 80- mile reach of the central California coast, extending from the mouth of the Russian River in the north to Half Moon Bay in the south, was studied for the characteristics of sediment movement in the nearshore zone. From the results of a large number of beach and offshore sediment samples and other information, several techniques were...