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Wengrove, M. E. (author), Foster, D. L. (author), Lippmann, T. C. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Calantoni, J. (author)
Bedload transport is an important mechanism for sediment flux in the nearshore. Yet few studies examine the relationship between bedform evolution and net sediment transport. Our work contributes concurrent observations of bedform mobility and bedload transport in response to wave dominant, current dominant, and combined wave-current flows in...
journal article 2019
document
Morgan, Steven G. (author), Shanks, Alan L. (author), MacMahan, Jamie H. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Feddersen, Falk (author)
Plankton are transported onshore, providing subsidies of food and new recruits to surf-zone and intertidal communities. The transport of plankton to the surf zone is influenced by wind, wave, and tidal forcing, and whether they enter the surf zone depends on alongshore variation in surf-zone hydrodynamics caused by the interaction of breaking...
review 2018
document
Horner-Devine, Alexander R. (author), Pietrzak, J.D. (author), Souza, Alejandro J. (author), McKeon, Margaret A. (author), Meirelles, Saulo (author), Henriquez, M. (author), Flores, Raúl P. (author), Rijnsburger, S. (author)
We present a new mechanism for cross-shore transport of fine sediment from the nearshore to the inner shelf resulting from the onshore propagation of river plume fronts. Onshore frontal propagation is observed in moorings and radar images, which show that fronts penetrate onshore through the nearshore and surf zone, almost to the waterline....
journal article 2017
document
Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to propagation of irregular waves in a barred surf zone, and the model results are discussed by comparing against an extensive laboratory data set. This study focus not only on wave transformation in the surf zone, but also on the numerical prediction of...
conference paper 2014
document
Senechal, N. (author), Abadie, S. (author), Gallagher, E. (author), MacMahan, J. (author), Masselink, G. (author), Michallet, H. (author), Reniers, A. (author), Ruessink, G. (author), Russell, P. (author), Sous, D. (author)
A large multi-institutional nearshore field experiment was conducted at Truc Vert, on the Atlantic coast of France in early 2008. Truc Vert’08 was designed to measure beach change on a long, sandy stretch of coast without engineering works with emphasis on large winter waves (offshore significant wave height up to 8 m), a three-dimensional...
journal article 2011
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MacMahan, J.H. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author)
Observations of velocity fluctuations with periods between about 4 and 30 min, thus longer than infragravity waves and referred to as very low frequency (VLF) surf zone motions, are described and compared with numerical simulations. The VLF motions discussed here exclude instabilities (generated by the wave-driven alongshore current velocity...
journal article 2010
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Brown, J. (author), MacMahan, J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Thornton, E. (author)
Absolute and relative diffusivity are measured on a rip-channeled beach using 30 position-tracking drifters released in clusters (4–12 drifters) deployed on 7 days with different wave forcing and tidal elevations at Sand City, Monterey Bay, California. Diffusivity and dispersion were found to be larger on days with rip current flow patterns and...
journal article 2009
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), MacMahan, J.H. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author), Stanton, T.P. (author), Henriquez, M. (author), Brown, J.W. (author), Brown, J.A. (author), Gallagher, E. (author)
The retention of floating matter within the surf zone on a rip-channeled beach is examined with a combination of detailed field observations obtained during the Rip Current Experiment and a three-dimensional (3-D) wave and flow model. The acoustic Doppler current profiler–observed hourly vertical cross-shore velocity structure variability over a...
journal article 2009
document
Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author), Kessel, T. van (author)
report 2002
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Plant, N.G. (author)
This study showed that, in spite of annual and intra-annual forcing, interannual frequencies explained over 70% of the temporal morphologic variability observed at a beach near Duck, NC. Dominant interannual variability is not consistent with most existing conceptual models, which predict morphologic response at the same time scale as the...
report 1998
document
Rodriguez, A. (author)
Background information related to a large study on the hydrodynamics of the surf zone, with focus on the Ebro Delta. Part A consists of a reprint of some articles, part B describes various field experiments all over the world, Part C gives all collected data during the 1993 field campaign in the Campañas delta.
report 1997
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Svendsen, A. (author)
Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline. When waves break on a gently sloping beach, large amounts of energy are released and turned into turbulence. As the waves keep breaking and interacting with...
report 1992
document
Roelvink, J.A. (author)
The transformation of certain parameters of an incident random wave train across the surf zone has been the subject of much study and modelling effort. In recent literature, two classes of models have been developed, which are both based on the wave energy balance or the wave action equation, but use markedly different approaches. The main goal...
report 1992
document
Kroon, A. (author)
The present report gives a summary of all the data collected during the field campaign at the beach and in the nearshore zone near Egmond aan Zee, the Netherlands in 1990. The field experiments are executed with the overall goal to improve the knowledge of the processes which govern the depositional and erosional responses of the surfzone,...
report 1990
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Reniers, A. (author)
This progress report refers to part the work done within the framework of the Dutch Center for Coastal Research (NCK). The primary objective of our research is to develop knowledge and methods for the prediction of the hydrodynamic conditions for the Dutch coast taking into account the morphodynamic behaviour in the nearshore zone. In general...
report 1990
document
Okayasu, A. (author)
The characteristic motion of water under breaking waves and the turbulence structure in the surf zone were investigated through detailed two-dimensional velocity measurements in a wave flume. Significant difference was found between the breaking processes in the outer and inner regions of the surf zone. The velocity field in each region consists...
report 1989
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Rijn, L.C. van (author)
report 1988
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Bosman, J.J. (author)
report 1986
document
Van Heteren, J. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)
Realistic modelling of the internal kinematics of wind waves breaking on a beach is of great practical importance, e.g. for the modelling of coastal processes and for the design of coastal structures. A fundarnental aspect in this modelling concerns. the relation between the surface elevation and the internal kinematics. In this respect it...
report 1985
document
Derks, H. (author), Kos, T. (author), Moritz, H.C. (author)
report 1983
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