Kinematics and Directionality of Waves in the Surf Zone

Realistic modelling of the internal kinematics of wind waves breaking on a beach is of great practical importance, e.g. for the modelling of coastal processes and for the design of coastal structures. A fundarnental aspect in this modelling concerns. the relation between the surface elevation and the internal kinematics. In this respect it...

Random wave breaking and induced currents

The radiation stress concept is basic to the description of currents induced by waves. Gradients of the excess momentum flux due to the presence of waves (or radiation stress) appear as volume forces in the time- and depth-integrated horizontal momentum balance equations. Combined with the continuity equation these three equations yield the mean...