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Dingemans, M.W. (author)It is already known for a long time that one of the major discrepancies between computations with Boussinesq-like models and measurements, is due to the inaccurate representation of the linear frequency dispersion in the Boussinesq-like long wave models. A comparison of various models as given in Dingemans (1973) showed already large differences...report 1994
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Kamphuis, J.W. (author)The selection of scales for models with short waves, long waves and unindirectional current is discussed with particular emphasis on boundary layer motion and movement of sediment. The paper attempts to outline the present state of the art and to provide a framework for future research in the area of coastal sediment transport models at Queen's...report 1972