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Klopman, G. (author)
Changes in the mean horizontal-velocity profile in combined wave-current motion, outside the bottom boundary-layer, are essential for the correct prediction of cross-shore sediment transport outside the surf zone and the transport of dissolved matter, e.g. Klopman (1992). To be able to verify mathematical and numerical models (see Klopman, 1992)...
report 1994
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De Wit, P.J. (author)
A research project was started at the Delft University of Technology in order to study the interaction between waves as well as a current and a muddy bed. For this purpose several experiments were made on artificial clays. In the present report only flume experiments on China Clay are discussed. In the experiments made special attention was paid...
report 1994
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Gent, M.R.A. van (author), Petit, H.A.H. (author), Bosch, P. van den (author)
report 1993
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Farr, Bruce (author), Oliver, Clay (author)
report 1993
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Kjeldsen, S.P. (author)
conference paper 1993
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Boccotti, P. (author)
Analysis of sea states in deep water. - Discussed will be the difficulties of an analytical solution for the wave period and the wave height probability - The closed solution for the wave height probability in the limit of the band-width approaching zero - The closed solution for the wave height probability in the limit H/sqrt(m0)->inf. - The...
report 1992
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Svendsen, A. (author)
Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline. When waves break on a gently sloping beach, large amounts of energy are released and turned into turbulence. As the waves keep breaking and interacting with...
report 1992
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Dalrymple, R.A. (author)
The propagation of waves from offshore to onshore is a difficult problem due to the mathematical complexities of the governing equations and the degree of uncertainty of the bathymetry over which the waves must travel. In this lecture, the various methods of transforming offshore wave trains to shallow water are discussed. First, single wave...
report 1992
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Bijker, E.W. (author)
The motivation to develop a transport formulation for the combination of waves and current has been the necessity to model longshore transport passing tidal in- and outlets. The generally applied C.E.R.C. formula for the longshore transport is not applicable here because that formula relates the longshore transport to the longshore current...
report 1992
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Havinga, F.J. (author)
The present report contains a description of an experimental program, as a follow up of experiments by v.d. Kaaij and Nieuwjaar in 1986, and Nap and Van Kampen in 1987. As in the second study, in the present study a particle sand diameter of D50 = 100 mu was used, so that the experiments of Nap and Van Kampen will be referred as "the earlier 100...
master thesis 1992
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Dallinga, Reint P. (author), Hubregtse, Arne H. (author), Siregar, F.R.T. (author), Rustenburg, A. (author)
conference paper 1992
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Van Leeuwen, P.J. (author), Klopman, G. (author)
For the generation of second-order random waves in a flume the control signal for the wave board has to be correct up to second order. An expression for this control signal is derived with the perturbation method of multiple scales. It is much less complex and requires less computation time than the expressions obtained from the full second...
report 1991
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Beji, S. (author)
Nonlinear aspects of breaking and non-breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar have been investigated by laboratory experiments, with special emphasis on the generation of high-frequency energy. Data collected from the measurements are used for computing spectral and bispectral estimates in order to assess the contribution of...
conference paper 1991
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Peregrine, D.H. (author)
The aim of this workshop was to take advantage of the recent freedom available to scientists in the Soviet Union (now Commonwealth of Independent States) to travel to the West in order to develop both contacts and an awareness of current research between research workers from East and West, most of whom have formerly had little contact. We...
report 1991
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Kraneveld, M.R. (author)
In conventional practice extreme design conditions for offshore structures are obtained very conservatively by extrapolating 3-hourly statistics of wind, wave and current data to a (say) 100 year return level, assuming that the 100-year extremes occur simultaneously and act in the same direction. This study involves an alternative approach...
master thesis 1991
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Heijermans, B.H. (author)
This is a study of the statistics of the ocean surface. The extreme surface elevation arising from waves, tides and storm surge is calculated by a novel approach that appears to eliminate many of the shortcomings of the convential practice. The proposed method works with the statistics of storms rather than three hour periods. A storm may be...
master thesis 1991
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Daemen, I.F.R. (author)
This report contains an analysis of data on wave transmission. It is restricted to wave transmission at low-crested permeable breakwaters. All data used are from tests with irregular waves. These data were earlier gatherd in Delft Hydraulics' report: "Data on wave transmission due to overtopping by J.W. van der Meer ((1990). Aim of the research:...
master thesis 1991
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Shafiee-Far, M. (author)
BELUGA is a mathematical model which has been developed by Booij, Holthuijsen and Tolman in Delft University of Thechnology, to compute wave penetration into a harbour taking diffraction and reflection into consideration. The aim of the model is to provide an efficient numerical method for calculation of a wave field in a relatively large...
master thesis 1991
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Abbot, Michael B. (author), Madsen, Per A. (author)
book 1990
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Reniers, A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author)
In the following we consider the forcing of long waves by normally or obliquely incident grouped short waves, also known as surf beat. Two mechanisms responsible for the generation of long waves are considered: the release of the bound long waves associated with changes in the spatial variation of the incident short wave energy [Longuet-Higgins...
report 1990
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