Infragravity-wave modulation of short-wave celerity in the surf zone

The cross-shore evolution of individual wave celerity is investigated using two highresolution laboratory experiments on bichromatic waves. Individual waves are tracked during their onshore propagation and their characteristics, including celerity, are estimated. The intrawave variability in celerity is low in the shoaling zone but increases...

Nonlinear infragravity–wave interactions on a gently sloping laboratory beach

A high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral analysis to identify the dominant, nonlinear interactions and estimate energy transfers to investigate energy flows within the...

Morphological Development of a Mega-Nourishment: First Observations at the Sand Engine

Large (mega-scale) nourishments have been proposed as a promising alternative for traditional beach and shoreface nourishments, especially for locations with large structural erosion and sufficient sediment to dredge. This paper examines the initial bathymetric evolution of the Sand Engine, a mega-nourishment of 17 million m3 protruding almost 1...

Vortex tubes in the wave bottom boundary layer

The cause of sediment suspension events during flow reversal under waves in the nearshore is not well understood. Vortex tubes and horizontal pressure gradients have been suggested to be the cause of the suspension events. A medium sized wave flume experiment has been conducted to give insight in the hydrodynamics of the wave bottom boundary...

On the scaling of sediment transport in the nearshore

Scale relations are necessary to choose proper sediment for physical models. The use of lightweight artificial sediment makes it possible to preserve the Reynolds number, Shields number and relative settling velocity altogether. There is also the possibility to preserve the Shields number in combination with the Dean number which would be more...

Modeling cross-shore sandbar behavior on the timescale of weeks

We compare predictions of a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore waves-currents-bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar migration. The observations span a 10- and 44-day period with onshore/offshore bar migration at Duck, North Carolina, and at Hasaki, Kashima Coast, Japan, respectively, a 3.5-month...

Nearshore subtidal bathymetry from time-exposure video images

Time-averaged (over many wave periods) nearshore video observations show the process of wave breaking as one or more white alongshore bands of high intensity. Across a known depth profile, similar bands of dissipation can be predicted with a model describing the time-averaged cross-shore evolution of organized wave and roller energy. This close...

Video observations and model predictions of depth-induced wave dissipation

Delft Cluster - coasts: Final report

Methodological approach to model development for Unibest TC

Measurement errors of instruments for velocity, wave heigt, sand concentration and bed levels in field conditions

Field measurements of hydrodynamics (fluid velocities and wave height), sediment dynamics (sand concentrations) and morphodynamics (bar behaviour) as performed during the COAST3D campaigns at the Egmond site in 1998 and at the Teignmouth site in 1999 inevitably involve the problem of the accuracy of the measured variables. The measurement errors...

Benchmarking database for Unibest-TC and DELFT3D-MOR