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Measurements of morphodynamics of a sheltered beach along the Dutch Wadden Sea

van der Lugt, M.A. (author), Bosma, Jorn W. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Price, Timothy D. (author), van Maarseveen, Marcel C. G. (author), van der Gaag, P. (author), Ruessink, Gerben (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author)

A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into the driving processes behind sheltered beach morphodynamics. Detailed measurements of the local hydrodynamics, bed-level changes and sediment composition were collected at a man-made beach on the leeside of the barrier island Texel, bordering...

journal article 2024

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QuadWave1D: An optimized quadratic formulation for spectral prediction of coastal waves

Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)

Spectral information of coastal waves and the associated statistical parameters (e.g., the significant wave height and mean wave period) over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective...

journal article 2024

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Measurements of dune erosion processes during the RealDune/REFLEX experiments

van Wiechen, P.P.J. (author), Rutten, J. (author), de Vries, S. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Mieras, Ryan (author), Anarde, Katherine (author), Baker, Christine (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Mol, Jan-Willem (author)

Nearshore hydro- and morphodynamic data were collected during a field experiment under calm conditions, moderate conditions, and storm conditions with dune erosion in the collision regime. The experiment was conducted on the Sand Engine near Kijkduin, the Netherlands, from October 18, 2021, to January 7, 2022. Two artificial unvegetated dunes...

journal article 2024

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The impact of modulational instability on coastal wave forecasting using quadratic models

Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)

Coastal wave forecasting over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective models. A well-known efficient modelling approach is the quadratic approach (often referred to as frequency-domain...

journal article 2024

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Field observations of wave-averaged suspended sediment concentrations in the inner surf zone with varying storm conditions

van Wiechen, P.P.J. (author), de Vries, S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

During extreme conditions, the transport of the wave-averaged suspended sediment concentrations in the inner surf zone affects dune erosion. Although large-scale laboratory experiments have provided insight in what drives these sediment concentrations, corresponding field data are lacking. To fill this gap, novel field observations of suspended...

journal article 2024

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Wave Shape Evolution from a Phase-Averaged Spectral Model

de Wit, F.P. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

In spectral wave models, the nonlinear triad source term accounts for the transfer of energy to the bound higher harmonics. This paper presents an extension to commonly used spectral models that resolves the evolution of the bound wave energy by keeping track of the energy that has been bound by the triad interactions. This extension is referred...

journal article 2024

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Continuous Wave Measurements Collected in Intermediate Depth throughout the North Sea Storm Season during the RealDune/REFLEX Experiments

Rutten, J. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), van Wiechen, P.P.J. (author), Zhang, Xinyi (author), de Vries, S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Mol, Jan-Willem (author)

High-resolution wave measurements at intermediate water depth are required to improve coastal impact modeling. Specifically, such data sets are desired to calibrate and validate models, and broaden the insight on the boundary conditions that force models. Here, we present a wave data set collected in the North Sea at three stations in...

journal article 2024

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Optimising the wave attenuation of bamboo fences using the numerical wave model SWASH

Alferink, M. (author), Gijón Mancheño, A. (author), Suzuki, Tomohiro (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

The coastline of Demak, Indonesia, has been eroding during the<br/>last 15 years. Coastal retreat in Demak is caused by a combination<br/>of mangrove deforestation and local subsidence due to groundwater<br/>extraction in the nearby city of Semarang. To restore the lost mangrove<br/>forest, permeable dams, consisting of bamboo poles with a<br/...

journal article 2023

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Cross-shore transformation of bound and free infragravity waves off the Dutch coast

Rutten, J. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Zhang, Xinyi (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), van Wiechen, P.P.J. (author), de Vries, S. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Mol, Jan Willem (author), Wilmink, Rinse (author)

Infragravity (IG) waves are key drivers for coastal erosion and thus need to be properly included in process-based modelling of coastal hazards. Uncertainties remain regarding the offshore boundary conditions for these long waves. Typically, only bound IG waves are included at the boundary, which means that the possible contribution of free IG...

conference paper 2023

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Quantifying spit growth and its hydrodynamic drivers in wind-dominated lake environments

van Kouwen, Niels C. (author), Ton, A.M. (author), Vos, S.E. (author), Vijverberg, Thomas (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author)

Many sand spits are morphodynamically complex landforms, that are either analysed with complex and expensive computational models or at a conceptual level. Therefore, most case studies on spits in different environments are descriptive. A novel method based on the use of polar coordinates was devised to quantitatively analyse spit...

journal article 2023

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A mild-slope formulation based on Weyl rule of association with application to coastal wave modelling

Akrish, G. (author), Smit, Pieter (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

Weyl rule of association, proposed by Hermann Weyl for quantum mechanics applications (Weyl, 1931), can be used to associate between the dispersion relation of water waves and a non-local pseudo-differential operator. The central result of this study is that this operator correctly approximates the Dirichlet-to-Neumann operator derived for...

journal article 2023

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Modeling Multi-Fraction Coastal Aeolian Sediment Transport With Horizontal and Vertical Grain-Size Variability

van IJzendoorn, Christa (author), Hallin, E.C. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), de Vries, S. (author)

Grain size affects the rates of aeolian sediment transport on beaches. Sediment in coastal environments typically consists of multiple grain-size fractions and exhibits spatiotemporal variations. Still, conceptual and numerical aeolian transport models are simplified and often only include a single fraction that is constant over the model...

journal article 2023

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Dune erosion during storm surges: A review of the observations, physics and modelling of the collision regime

van Wiechen, P.P.J. (author), de Vries, S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author)

Dune erosion during storm surges can lead to excessive damage to the dune system with devastating floods as a potential consequence. A risk assessment of areas protected by dunes can be facilitated by an understanding and description of the physical processes that take place. Field measurements, knowledge of underlying processes and numerical...

review 2023

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Including the effect of depth-uniform ambient currents on waves in a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model

Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), van Rooijen, Arnold (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)

Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straightforward as it requires appropriate boundary conditions in combination with a large domain size and long...

journal article 2023

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Measurements and Modeling of Pore-Pressure Gradients in the Swash Zone Under Large-Scale Laboratory Bichromatic Waves

Kranenborg, J. W.M. (author), Pauli, T. (author), Jacobsen, N. G. (author), van der Werf, J. J. (author), Dionisio Antonio, S. (author), Campmans, G. H.P. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Hulscher, S. J.M.H. (author)

The present work presents physical laboratory measurements of surface elevation and pore water pressures in a fine sand bed under bichromatic waves in a large-scale laboratory experiment. This was done at three cross-shore locations in the swash zone, with pressures being measured at different depths in the bed. The measurements show that the...

journal article 2023

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Reconstruction of Directional Spectra of Infragravity Waves

Matsuba, Yoshinao (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Shimozono, Takenori (author)

Understanding directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves composed of free and bound components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (e.g., coastal inundation and morphological change). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectra relying on linear wave theory are not applicable to IG waves...

journal article 2022

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Chenier Formation Through Wave Winnowing and Tides

Tas, S.A.J. (author), van Maren, D.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

Cheniers are ridges consisting of coarse-grained sediments, resting on top of the fine sediment that forms the otherwise muddy coast. In this paper, we use Delft3D to explore how cheniers are formed through wave winnowing. We identify three phases of chenier development: (a) a winnowing phase, during which mud is washed out of the seabed...

journal article 2022

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Evaluation of Implicit and Explicit Wave Dissipation Models for Submerged and Emergent Aquatic Vegetation

Ascencio, Jaime A. (author), Jacobsen, Niels G. (author), McFall, Brian C. (author), Groeneweg, Jacco (author), Vuik, V. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

To address the important research question of whether implicit (bottom friction) or explicit (stem drag) dissipation models are most appropriate for the prediction of wave attenuation due to aquatic vegetation, the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) spectral wave model has been extended with an explicit frequency-dependent dissipation model...

journal article 2022

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SWAN SurfBeat-1D

Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)

The Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model has been extended with an infragravity module to predict the Wave-Group-Forced (WGF) infragravity response to a frequency-directional sea-swell spectrum at a mildly sloping alongshore uniform beach. To that end the SWAN model has been extended with an WGF-infragravity source term denoted S<sub>sb<...

journal article 2022

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Depth-Resolved Modelling of Intra-Swash Morphodynamics Induced by Solitary Waves

Kranenborg, Joost W.M. (author), Campmans, Geert H.P. (author), Jacobsen, Niels G. (author), van der Werf, Jebbe J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Hulscher, Suzanne J.M.H. (author)

We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM^® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with a (Formula presented.) turbulence model and the Volume of Fluid (VoF) approach for...

journal article 2022