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Measurements of morphodynamics of a sheltered beach along the Dutch Wadden Sea

van der Lugt, M.A. (author), Bosma, Jorn W. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Price, Timothy D. (author), van Maarseveen, Marcel C. G. (author), van der Gaag, P. (author), Ruessink, Gerben (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author)

A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new insights into the driving processes behind sheltered beach morphodynamics. Detailed measurements of the local hydrodynamics, bed-level changes and sediment composition were collected at a man-made beach on the leeside of the barrier island Texel, bordering...

journal article 2024

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The Contribution of Sand Ripple and Slope Driven Sediment Flux to Morphologic Change of an Idealized Mound Under Waves

Lee, Seok Bong (author), Wengrove, Meagan E. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Hopkins, Julia (author), Kleinhans, Maarten G. (author), Ruessink, Gerben (author)

We investigate pathways of sediment diffusion for a Gaussian-shaped sand mound subjected to monochromatic waves. Our unique results nearly close the sediment budget by quantifying each of the sediment transport processes responsible for mound diffusion associated with sediment flux due to slope driven transport and ripple migration. Downslope...

journal article 2023

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Impact of mean sea-level rise on the long-term evolution of a mega-nourishment

Ribas, Francesca (author), Portos-Amill, Laura (author), Falqués, Albert (author), Arriaga, Jaime (author), Marcos, Marta (author), Ruessink, Gerben (author)

Mean sea-level rise (MSLR) will induce shoreline recession, increasing the stress on coastal systems of high socio-economic and environmental values. Localized mega-nourishments are meant to alleviate erosion problems by diffusing alongshore over decades and thus feeding adjacent beaches. The 21-st century morphological evolution of the...

journal article 2023

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Comment on ‘Is ‘re-mobilisation’ nature restoration or nature destruction? A commentary’ by I. Delgado-Fernandez, R.G.D. Davidson-Arnott & P.A. Hesp

Arens, Sebastiaan M. (author), de Vries, S. (author), Geelen, Luc HWT (author), Ruessink, Gerben (author), van der Hagen, Harrie GJM (author), Groenedijk, Dick (author)

In their recently published paper, Delgado-Fernandez et al. (2019) critically review the limitations and dangers of the relatively recent shift towards dune rejuvenation management in North-western Europe. We would like to comment on the paper from the Dutch perspective.

journal article 2020

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Observations and modelling of shoreface nourishment behaviour

Huisman, B.J.A. (author), Walstra, Dirk Jan R. (author), Radermacher, Max (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Ruessink, B. Gerben (author)

Shoreface nourishments are commonly applied for coastal maintenance, but their behaviour is not well understood. Bathymetric data of 19 shoreface nourishments located at alongshore uniform sections of the Dutch coast were therefore analyzed and used to validate an efficient method for predicting the erosion of shoreface nourishments. Data shows...

journal article 2019

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Modelling of bed sediment composition changes at the lower shoreface of the Sand Motor

Huisman, B.J.A. (author), Ruessink, B. G. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Luijendijk, Arjen (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)

Large perturbations in the coastline, such as the 'Sand Motor' nourishment (∼21 million m³) at the Holland coast, can initiate considerable spatial and temporal changes in the median grain size (D₅₀) of the sea bed on the lower shoreface. The relevance of hydrodynamic conditions for the development of the heterogeneity...

journal article 2018

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Recent insights into inter-annual sandbar dynamics

Walstra, D.J.R. (author), Ruessink, BG (author)

Based on model hindcasts of the bar cycle at two locations along the Dutch coast, the dominant processes and mechanisms that govern the bar amplitude growth and decay during net inter-annual offshore migration, the occurrence of bar switches and the inter-site differences in the bar cycle return period (Tr) are identified. Bar growth and decay...

conference paper 2017

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Infragravity waves and bore merging

Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Bonneton, P (author), Ruessink, Gerben (author)

The phenomenon of bore merging is investigated using two high-resolution laboratory experiments including bichromatic and irregular wave conditions. The locations at which waves start merging are identified and the hydrodynamic conditions in the vicinity of the merging points are examined. Bore merging takes place in the inner surf zone for all...

conference paper 2017

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Sediment sorting at the Sand Motor at storm and annual time scales

Huisman, B.J.A. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Ruessink, B. G. (author)

Bed sediment composition, with a focus on the median grain size D₅₀, was investigated at a large-scale nourishment (The ‘Sand Motor’) at the Dutch coast (∼21.5 million m³ sand). Considerable alongshore heterogeneity of the bed composition (D₅₀) was observed as the Sand Motor evolved over time with (1)...

journal article 2016

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Cross-shore sand transport by infragravity waves as a function of beach steepness

de Bakker, J.C. (author), Brinkkemper, J. A. (author), van der Steen, F. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B. G. (author)

Two field data sets of near-bed velocity, pressure, and sediment concentration are analyzed to study the influence of infragravity waves on sand suspension and cross-shore transport. On the moderately sloping Sand Motor beach (≈1:35), the local ratio of infragravity wave height to sea-swell wave height is relatively small (H_IG/H...

journal article 2016

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On the Intersite Variability in Inter-Annual Nearshore Sandbar Cycles

Walstra, D.J.R. (author), Wesselman, Daan (author), van der Deyl, Eveline (author), Ruessink, BG (author)

Inter-annual bar dynamics may vary considerably across sites with very similar environmental settings. In particular, the variability of the bar cycle return period (Tr) may differ by a factor of 3 to 4. To date, data studies are only partially successful in explaining differences in Tr, establishing at best weak correlations to local...

journal article 2016

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Initial spreading of a mega feeder nourishment: Observations of the Sand Engine pilot project

de Schipper, M.A. (author), de Vries, S. (author), Ruessink, G (author), de Zeeuw, RC (author), Rutten, J (author), van Gelder-Maas, C (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)

journal article 2016

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Beach steepness effects on nonlinear infragravity-wave interactions: A numerical study

De Bakker, A. T M (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B. G. (author)

The numerical model SWASH is used to investigate nonlinear energy transfers between waves for a diverse set of beach profiles and wave conditions, with a specific focus on infragravity waves. We use bispectral analysis to study the nonlinear triad interactions, and estimate energy transfers to determine energy flows within the spectra. The...

journal article 2016

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Infragravity-wave modulation of short-wave celerity in the surf zone

Tissier, M. (author), Bonneton, P. (author), Michallet, H. (author), Ruessink, B.G. (author)

The cross-shore evolution of individual wave celerity is investigated using two highresolution laboratory experiments on bichromatic waves. Individual waves are tracked during their onshore propagation and their characteristics, including celerity, are estimated. The intrawave variability in celerity is low in the shoaling zone but increases...

journal article 2015

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Infragravity-wave dynamics in a barred coastal region, a numerical study

Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Ruessink, G. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)

This paper presents a comprehensive numerical study into the infragravity-wave dynamics at a field site, characterized by a gently sloping barred beach. The nonhydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH was used to simulate the local wavefield for a range of wave conditions (including mild and storm conditions). The extensive spatial coverage of the...

journal article 2015

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Dune growth due to aeolian sediment transport and the role of the beach and intertidal zone

de Vries, S. (author), Harley, Mitchell D (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Ruessink, Gerben (author)

The development of dunes is characterized by the alternating effects of erosion during storm events and growth during milder conditions. The quantification of dune growth due to aeolian processes has received some attention but uncertainty remains on where the dune sand, which accommodates growing dunes, originates from in the coastal profile....

conference paper 2015

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Nonlinear infragravity–wave interactions on a gently sloping laboratory beach

De Bakker, A.T.M. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B.G. (author)

A high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral analysis to identify the dominant, nonlinear interactions and estimate energy transfers to investigate energy flows within the...

journal article 2015

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Morphological Development of a Mega-Nourishment: First Observations at the Sand Engine

De Schipper, M.A. (author), De Vries, S. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author), De Zeeuw, R.C. (author), Rutten, J. (author), Ruessink, B.G. (author), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author), Van Gelder-Maas, C. (author)

Large (mega-scale) nourishments have been proposed as a promising alternative for traditional beach and shoreface nourishments, especially for locations with large structural erosion and sufficient sediment to dredge. This paper examines the initial bathymetric evolution of the Sand Engine, a mega-nourishment of 17 million m3 protruding almost 1...

conference paper 2014

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Input reduction for long-term morphodynamic simulations

Walstra, D.J.R. (author), Ruessink, G. (author), Hoekstra, R. (author), Tonnon, P.K. (author)

Input reduction is imperative to long-term (> years) morphodynamic simulations to avoid excessive computation times. Here, we discuss the input-reduction framework for wave-dominated coastal settings introduced by Walstra et al. (2013). The framework comprised 4 steps, viz. (1) the selection of the duration of the original (full) time series of...

conference paper 2013

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Modelling aeolian sediment accumulations on a beach

De Vries, S. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), Ruessink, G. (author)

This paper aims to conceptually simulate observed spatial and temporal variability in aeolian sediment transport rates, erosion and deposition on a beach. Traditional strategies of modeling aeolian sediment transport rates do not account for supply limitations that are common on natural beaches. A recently developed 1D linear advection model is...

conference paper 2013