Reshaping of beach nourishments under high angle of wave incidence

The morphological impact on nourishments of conditions with high oblique wave incidence has been investigated in literature using either a one-line approach or quasy-2D models. These models predict downdrift nourishment migration and the generation of alongshore sand waves for persistent conditions with high oblique wave incidence. However,...

Modelling nearshore currents driven by waves and set-up gradients

During the fall of 2003, an extensive measurement campaign called the “Nearshore Canyon Experiment” (NCEX) was set up along the coast of La Jolla, California. The project site covered an area in which two submarine canyons are located, respectively La Jolla and Scripps Submarine Canyon. Over 20 institutions collaborated on recording the...