Tidal flats are complex coastal environments where tides, waves, and sediment dynamics interact to shape morphology and sustain ecological functions. Understanding these interactions is essential for managing estuarine systems such as the Western Scheldt, where port activities, s
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Tidal flats are complex coastal environments where tides, waves, and sediment dynamics interact to shape morphology and sustain ecological functions. Understanding these interactions is essential for managing estuarine systems such as the Western Scheldt, where port activities, sea level rise, flood protection and ecological conservation increasingly compete for space. Although previous studies have highlighted the importance of waves in mobilising fine sediments, many have relied on monochromatic representations of wave fields. These approaches reduce irregular wave fields to a single characteristic height and period, which conceals the influence of long waves and multi-modal spectra. This thesis reviews the potential of a spectral approach to improve the understanding of wave and sediment dynamics on muddy tidal flats by explicitly considering the full wave spectrum and its cross-shore transformation.
The research investigates whether a spectral approach can provide a better interpretation of wave-driven sediment dynamics than a monochromatic description. Field measurements were conducted on the Gat van Borsele tidal flat in the Western Scheldt during a month-long campaign in spring 2025. Three instrument frames were deployed along a cross-shore transect, each equipped with acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADV), suspended sediment sensors (STMS), and pressure sensors. These instruments recorded 3D velocities, suspended sediment concentrations (SSC), and surface elevations to capture the evolution of both short and long wave components under varying water levels, tidal currents, and wind forcing. The resulting dataset allowed the construction of wave spectra and the analysis of corresponding near-bed orbital velocities, bed shear stresses, and sediment responses.
Short waves, defined within frequencies f = [0.1 - 1.5]Hz, were found to dominate surface elevation variance and to behave largely linearly, confirming that local wind-generated waves account for most of the tidal flat’s wave energy. The mild wind conditions were unable to generate depth-limited waves which are typically identified on tidal flats. Instead the effect of wind direction and fetch was clearly observed, where more onshore winds drove larger short waves. Long waves, defined as $f = [0.003 - 0.1] Hz$, were generally less energetic but contributed a significant portion of near-bed velocity variance, particularly at large water depths which attenuate short wave velocities. Large long waves could also be identified which originated outside of the local wave field. These are suspected to be formed by seiches or container vessels passing through the navigation channel. These more pronounced long waves reached orbital velocities similar to the short wave field, highlighting their capacity to influence sediment dynamics.
The SSC analysis revealed strongest responses to wave forcing within shallow water. Suspended sediment concentrations did not respond strongly to changes in wave driven bed shear stress. Instead, peaks in SSC were observed within a suspected turbid fringe which traveled up and down the tidal flat within shallow water between the middle and low measurement frames. At the high measurement frame, SSC had minimal response which contradicted the largest wave driven bed shear stresses at that location. Observing time series of SSC and long wave velocities reveals fluctuations of SSC similar to the long wave time scale. Yet this would require a co-spectral analysis to be confirmed.
The study concludes that a spectral approach enhances understanding of wave and sediment dynamics on muddy tidal flats by distinguishing between short and long wave processes that would otherwise be obscured. Under calm wave climates such as those observed during the measurement period, a monochromatic approach remains adequate. However, during more energetic events or at sites influenced by seiches, vessel traffic, or infra-gravity waves, the spectral approach holds great potential to correctly interpret cross-shore sediment transport by waves. Future research should therefore target more exposed or navigationally influenced flats to capture the full variability of wave-driven processes. Here it is critical to measure for a sufficient burst duration as to fully capture the potential long waves. By applying spectral analyses in such settings, this work contributes to a more complete understanding of estuarine morphodynamics and supports sustainable management of tidal flat systems.