NC
Nicholas Cohn
info
Please Note
<p>This page displays the records of the person named above and is not linked to a unique person identifier. This record may need to be merged to a profile.</p>
14 records found
1
Journal article
(2025)
-
Jakob C. Christiaanse, José A. Á. Antolínez, Edward J. Majzlik, Ad J.H.M. Reniers, Meye J. van der Grinten, Falco Taal, Jens Figlus, Timothy M. Dellapenna , Benjamin Ritt, Christopher D. Marshall, Peter A. Tereszkiewicz, Nicholas Cohn
Beach groundwater and nearshore hydrodynamic data were collected during a field experiment along two dissipative beach transects on Galveston Island, Texas, in the fall of 2023. The monitored beaches serve as nesting habitat for the critically endangered Kemp’s ridley sea turtle. Conditions ranged from calm to stormy, with two storms occurring during the experiment, inundating the entire beach up to the dune toe. Collected hydrodynamic data include readings from pressure loggers submerged in the foreshore and mounted in groundwater wells in the backshore, data from two wave buoys about 1.5 km offshore, and GoPro timestacks of the instantaneous waterline (wave runup). Other collected data include bathymetry and topography surveys, subsurface temperature and moisture content readings, and sediment characteristics. This comprehensive dataset can be used to (1) study relevant beach inundation and groundwater processes, including their effect on the local ecosystem (e.g., repeated flooding of sea turtle nests), (2) study the propagation of nearshore hydrodynamic processes into the beach matrix and groundwater table, and (3) validate existing beach groundwater models.
...
Beach groundwater and nearshore hydrodynamic data were collected during a field experiment along two dissipative beach transects on Galveston Island, Texas, in the fall of 2023. The monitored beaches serve as nesting habitat for the critically endangered Kemp’s ridley sea turtle. Conditions ranged from calm to stormy, with two storms occurring during the experiment, inundating the entire beach up to the dune toe. Collected hydrodynamic data include readings from pressure loggers submerged in the foreshore and mounted in groundwater wells in the backshore, data from two wave buoys about 1.5 km offshore, and GoPro timestacks of the instantaneous waterline (wave runup). Other collected data include bathymetry and topography surveys, subsurface temperature and moisture content readings, and sediment characteristics. This comprehensive dataset can be used to (1) study relevant beach inundation and groundwater processes, including their effect on the local ecosystem (e.g., repeated flooding of sea turtle nests), (2) study the propagation of nearshore hydrodynamic processes into the beach matrix and groundwater table, and (3) validate existing beach groundwater models.
AeoLiS
Numerical modelling of coastal dunes and aeolian landform development for real-world applications
Journal article
(2024)
-
Bart van Westen, Sierd de Vries, Nicholas Cohn, Christa van IJzendoorn, Glenn Strypsteen, Caroline Hallin
The formation and evolution of coastal dunes result from a complex interplay of eco-morphodynamic processes. State-of-the-art models can simulate aeolian transports and morphological dune evolution under certain conditions. However, a model combining these processes for coastal engineering applications was not yet available. This study aims to develop a predictive tool for dune development to inform coastal management decisions and interventions. The aeolian sediment transport model AeoLiS is extended with functionalities that allow for simulations of coastal landforms. The added functionalities include the effect of topographic steering on wind shear, avalanching of steep slopes and vegetation processes in the form of growth and wind shear reduction. The model is validated by simulating four distinct coastal landforms; barchan-, parabolic-, embryo dunes and blowouts. Simulations, based on real-world conditions, replicate the landform formation, migration rates and seasonal variability.
...
The formation and evolution of coastal dunes result from a complex interplay of eco-morphodynamic processes. State-of-the-art models can simulate aeolian transports and morphological dune evolution under certain conditions. However, a model combining these processes for coastal engineering applications was not yet available. This study aims to develop a predictive tool for dune development to inform coastal management decisions and interventions. The aeolian sediment transport model AeoLiS is extended with functionalities that allow for simulations of coastal landforms. The added functionalities include the effect of topographic steering on wind shear, avalanching of steep slopes and vegetation processes in the form of growth and wind shear reduction. The model is validated by simulating four distinct coastal landforms; barchan-, parabolic-, embryo dunes and blowouts. Simulations, based on real-world conditions, replicate the landform formation, migration rates and seasonal variability.
Journal article
(2024)
-
Bart van Westen, Arjen P. Luijendijk, Sierd de Vries, Nicholas Cohn, Tim W.B. Leijnse, Matthieu A. de Schipper
Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore–beach–dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) in coastal environments. To quantify the impact of the marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN and AeoLiS. This framework facilitates the continuous exchange of bed levels, water levels and wave properties between numerical models focussing on the aeolian and marine domain. The coupled model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment. Results display good agreement with the observed aeolian and marine volumetric developments, showing similar marine-driven erosion from the main peninsula and aeolian-driven infilling of the dune lake. To estimate the magnitude of the interactions between aeolian and marine processes, a comparison between the simulated morphological development by the coupled and stand-alone models was made. This comparison shows that aeolian sediment transport to the foredune, i.e. 214,000 m3 over 5 years, extracts sediment from the marine domain. As a result, the alongshore redistribution of sediment from the main peninsula by marine-driven processes decreased by 70,000 m3, representing 1.7% of the total marine-driven dispersion. From the aeolian perspective, marine-driven deposition and erosion reshape the cross-shore profile, controlling the supply-limited aeolian sediment transport and the magnitude of sediment deposition in the foredunes. In the region with persistent accretion along the Sand Engine's southern flank, a higher than average foredune deposition was predicted due to morphological development of the region where sediment is picked up by aeolian transport. Including these marine processes in the coupled model resulted in an increase of 1.3% in foredune growth in year 1 and up to 6.7% in year 5 along this accretive section. At the northern flank, where the developing lagoon and tidal channel provided increased shelter to the supratidal beach, predicted foredune deposition reduced up to −11.5% over the evaluation period. Our findings show that both aeolian and marine transports impact reshaping the nourished sand, where developments in one domain affect the other. The study findings echo that the interplay between aeolian- and marine-driven morphodynamics could play a relevant role when predicting sandy NBS.
...
Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore–beach–dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) in coastal environments. To quantify the impact of the marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN and AeoLiS. This framework facilitates the continuous exchange of bed levels, water levels and wave properties between numerical models focussing on the aeolian and marine domain. The coupled model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment. Results display good agreement with the observed aeolian and marine volumetric developments, showing similar marine-driven erosion from the main peninsula and aeolian-driven infilling of the dune lake. To estimate the magnitude of the interactions between aeolian and marine processes, a comparison between the simulated morphological development by the coupled and stand-alone models was made. This comparison shows that aeolian sediment transport to the foredune, i.e. 214,000 m3 over 5 years, extracts sediment from the marine domain. As a result, the alongshore redistribution of sediment from the main peninsula by marine-driven processes decreased by 70,000 m3, representing 1.7% of the total marine-driven dispersion. From the aeolian perspective, marine-driven deposition and erosion reshape the cross-shore profile, controlling the supply-limited aeolian sediment transport and the magnitude of sediment deposition in the foredunes. In the region with persistent accretion along the Sand Engine's southern flank, a higher than average foredune deposition was predicted due to morphological development of the region where sediment is picked up by aeolian transport. Including these marine processes in the coupled model resulted in an increase of 1.3% in foredune growth in year 1 and up to 6.7% in year 5 along this accretive section. At the northern flank, where the developing lagoon and tidal channel provided increased shelter to the supratidal beach, predicted foredune deposition reduced up to −11.5% over the evaluation period. Our findings show that both aeolian and marine transports impact reshaping the nourished sand, where developments in one domain affect the other. The study findings echo that the interplay between aeolian- and marine-driven morphodynamics could play a relevant role when predicting sandy NBS.
Conference paper
(2023)
-
Bart van Westen, Tim Leijnse, Matthieu de Schipper, Nicholas Cohn, Arjen Luijendijk
Traditionally, independent tools have been used to simulate wave- or wind-driven processes to simulate coastal morphology change. Coupled models that cross the land-sea division and integrate these collective processes can increase our knowledge on complex morphodynamic interactions and improve predictions of the foreshore, beach, and dune evolution. In this paper we present the initial development of a coupled modelling framework capable of numerically predicting the integrated development of coastal landforms, including both marine and aeolian processes, by using a generic model coupling approach that leverages the Basic Model Interface. The aim of this tool is to support the interdisciplinary design of Nature-based Solutions on varying spatiotemporal scales. As shown for the Marker Wadden case, the implemented model functionalities allow for the numerical description of the coast in an integrated manner and thus create opportunities for modeling coastal landform of the nearshore, beach, and dune that would not be possible with a discrete model approach. Specifically, by coupling two discrete numerical models, AeoLiS and XBeach, the aeolian and marine interaction resulted in a more realistic behavior of processes in the intertidal area. After coupling, bed levels compared better to the observations compared to the superpositioned results of both separate model components, which showed the added value and potential of coupled modelling. These findings have implications on the ability to predict spatio-temporal integrated coastal development – including these interacting aerodynamic, hydrodynamic, and ecological processes, which are essential in the interdisciplinary design of NbS.
...
Traditionally, independent tools have been used to simulate wave- or wind-driven processes to simulate coastal morphology change. Coupled models that cross the land-sea division and integrate these collective processes can increase our knowledge on complex morphodynamic interactions and improve predictions of the foreshore, beach, and dune evolution. In this paper we present the initial development of a coupled modelling framework capable of numerically predicting the integrated development of coastal landforms, including both marine and aeolian processes, by using a generic model coupling approach that leverages the Basic Model Interface. The aim of this tool is to support the interdisciplinary design of Nature-based Solutions on varying spatiotemporal scales. As shown for the Marker Wadden case, the implemented model functionalities allow for the numerical description of the coast in an integrated manner and thus create opportunities for modeling coastal landform of the nearshore, beach, and dune that would not be possible with a discrete model approach. Specifically, by coupling two discrete numerical models, AeoLiS and XBeach, the aeolian and marine interaction resulted in a more realistic behavior of processes in the intertidal area. After coupling, bed levels compared better to the observations compared to the superpositioned results of both separate model components, which showed the added value and potential of coupled modelling. These findings have implications on the ability to predict spatio-temporal integrated coastal development – including these interacting aerodynamic, hydrodynamic, and ecological processes, which are essential in the interdisciplinary design of NbS.
Journal article
(2022)
-
Christa O. van IJzendoorn, Caroline Hallin, Nicholas Cohn, Ad J.H.M. Reniers, Sierd De Vries
In sandy beach systems, the aeolian sediment transport can be governed by the vertical structure of the sediment layers at the bed surface. Here, data collected with a newly developed sand scraper is presented to determine high-resolution vertical grain size variability and how it is affected by marine and aeolian processes. Sediment samples at up to 2 mm vertical resolution down to 50 mm depth were collected at three beaches: Waldport (Oregon, USA), Noordwijk (the Netherlands) and Duck (North Carolina, USA). The results revealed that the grain size in individual layers can differ considerably from the median grain size of the total sample. The most distinct temporal variability occurred due to marine processes that resulted in significant morphological changes in the intertidal zone. The marine processes during high water resulted both in fining and coarsening of the surface sediment. Especially near the upper limit of wave runup, the formation of a veneer of coarse sediment was observed. Although the expected coarsening of the near-surface grain size during aeolian transport events was observed at times, the opposite trend also occurred. The latter could be explained by the formation and propagation of aeolian bedforms within the intertidal zone locally resulting in sediment fining at the bed surface. The presented data lays the basis for future sediment sampling strategies and sediment transport models that investigate the feedbacks between marine and aeolian transport, and the vertical variability of the grain size distribution.
...
In sandy beach systems, the aeolian sediment transport can be governed by the vertical structure of the sediment layers at the bed surface. Here, data collected with a newly developed sand scraper is presented to determine high-resolution vertical grain size variability and how it is affected by marine and aeolian processes. Sediment samples at up to 2 mm vertical resolution down to 50 mm depth were collected at three beaches: Waldport (Oregon, USA), Noordwijk (the Netherlands) and Duck (North Carolina, USA). The results revealed that the grain size in individual layers can differ considerably from the median grain size of the total sample. The most distinct temporal variability occurred due to marine processes that resulted in significant morphological changes in the intertidal zone. The marine processes during high water resulted both in fining and coarsening of the surface sediment. Especially near the upper limit of wave runup, the formation of a veneer of coarse sediment was observed. Although the expected coarsening of the near-surface grain size during aeolian transport events was observed at times, the opposite trend also occurred. The latter could be explained by the formation and propagation of aeolian bedforms within the intertidal zone locally resulting in sediment fining at the bed surface. The presented data lays the basis for future sediment sampling strategies and sediment transport models that investigate the feedbacks between marine and aeolian transport, and the vertical variability of the grain size distribution.
Journal article
(2019)
-
Nicholas Cohn, Bas M. Hoonhout, Evan B. Goldstein, Sierd de Vries, Laura J. Moore, Orencio Durán Vinent, Peter Ruggiero
Coastal landscape change represents aggregated sediment transport gradients from spatially and temporally variable marine and aeolian forces. Numerous tools exist that independently simulate subaqueous and subaerial coastal profile change in response to these physical forces on a range of time scales. In this capacity, coastal foredunes have been treated primarily as wind-driven features. However, there are several marine controls on coastal foredune growth, such as sediment supply and moisture effects on aeolian processes. To improve understanding of interactions across the land-sea interface, here the development of the new Windsurf-coupled numerical modeling framework is presented. Windsurf couples standalone subaqueous and subaerial coastal change models to simulate the co-evolution of the coastal zone in response to both marine and aeolian processes. Windsurf is applied to a progradational, dissipative coastal system inWashington, USA, demonstrating the ability of the model framework to simulate sediment exchanges between the nearshore, beach, and dune for a one-year period. Windsurf simulations generally reproduce observed cycles of seasonal beach progradation and retreat, as well as dune growth, with reasonable skill. Exploratory model simulations are used to further explore the implications of environmental forcing variability on annual-scale coastal profile evolution. The findings of this work support the hypothesis that there are both direct and indirect oceanographic and meteorological controls on coastal foredune progradation, with this new modeling tool providing a new means of exploring complex morphodynamic feedback mechanisms.
...
Coastal landscape change represents aggregated sediment transport gradients from spatially and temporally variable marine and aeolian forces. Numerous tools exist that independently simulate subaqueous and subaerial coastal profile change in response to these physical forces on a range of time scales. In this capacity, coastal foredunes have been treated primarily as wind-driven features. However, there are several marine controls on coastal foredune growth, such as sediment supply and moisture effects on aeolian processes. To improve understanding of interactions across the land-sea interface, here the development of the new Windsurf-coupled numerical modeling framework is presented. Windsurf couples standalone subaqueous and subaerial coastal change models to simulate the co-evolution of the coastal zone in response to both marine and aeolian processes. Windsurf is applied to a progradational, dissipative coastal system inWashington, USA, demonstrating the ability of the model framework to simulate sediment exchanges between the nearshore, beach, and dune for a one-year period. Windsurf simulations generally reproduce observed cycles of seasonal beach progradation and retreat, as well as dune growth, with reasonable skill. Exploratory model simulations are used to further explore the implications of environmental forcing variability on annual-scale coastal profile evolution. The findings of this work support the hypothesis that there are both direct and indirect oceanographic and meteorological controls on coastal foredune progradation, with this new modeling tool providing a new means of exploring complex morphodynamic feedback mechanisms.
New Insights on Coastal Foredune Growth
The Relative Contributions of Marine and Aeolian Processes
Coastal foredune growth is typically associated with aeolian sediment transport processes, while foredune erosion is associated with destructive marine processes. New data sets collected at a high energy, dissipative beach suggest that total water levels in the collision regime can cause dunes to accrete-requiring a paradigm shift away from considering collisional wave impacts as unconditionally erosional. From morphologic change data sets, it is estimated that marine processes explain between 9% and 38% of annual dune growth with aeolian processes accounting for the remaining 62% to 91%. The largest wind-driven dune growth occurs during the winter, in response to high wind velocities, but out of phase with summertime beach growth via intertidal sandbar welding. The lack of synchronization between maximum beach sediment supply and wind-driven dune growth indicates that aeolian transport at this site is primarily transport, rather than supply, limited, likely due to a lack of fetch limitations.
...
Coastal foredune growth is typically associated with aeolian sediment transport processes, while foredune erosion is associated with destructive marine processes. New data sets collected at a high energy, dissipative beach suggest that total water levels in the collision regime can cause dunes to accrete-requiring a paradigm shift away from considering collisional wave impacts as unconditionally erosional. From morphologic change data sets, it is estimated that marine processes explain between 9% and 38% of annual dune growth with aeolian processes accounting for the remaining 62% to 91%. The largest wind-driven dune growth occurs during the winter, in response to high wind velocities, but out of phase with summertime beach growth via intertidal sandbar welding. The lack of synchronization between maximum beach sediment supply and wind-driven dune growth indicates that aeolian transport at this site is primarily transport, rather than supply, limited, likely due to a lack of fetch limitations.
Seasonal variability in wave conditions drive corresponding cycles of erosion and accretion along sandy beaches. Despite the fact that these oscillations are well documented at numerous sites throughout the world, the physical processes driving beach recovery remain poorly understood. Using field data from a low sloping, dissipative beach in the U.S. Pacific Northwest we show that the onshore migration of intertidal sandbars contributes to beach growth in a rapidly prograding system. Over a six week period two intertidal sandbars are shown to migrate onshore resulting in the generation of a low relief berm and local beach width increases of up to 20 m. Although significant alongshore variability of intertidal morphological change was observed, a 2.5 km stretch of coast is shown to experience beach growth as a result of intertidal bar welding.
...
Seasonal variability in wave conditions drive corresponding cycles of erosion and accretion along sandy beaches. Despite the fact that these oscillations are well documented at numerous sites throughout the world, the physical processes driving beach recovery remain poorly understood. Using field data from a low sloping, dissipative beach in the U.S. Pacific Northwest we show that the onshore migration of intertidal sandbars contributes to beach growth in a rapidly prograding system. Over a six week period two intertidal sandbars are shown to migrate onshore resulting in the generation of a low relief berm and local beach width increases of up to 20 m. Although significant alongshore variability of intertidal morphological change was observed, a 2.5 km stretch of coast is shown to experience beach growth as a result of intertidal bar welding.
Conference paper
(2017)
-
Sierd de Vries, Anne Verheijen, Bas Hoonhout, Sander Vos, Nicholas Cohn, Peter Ruggiero
This paper shows the first results of measured spatial variability of beach erosion due to aeolian processes during the recently conducted SEDEX2 field experiment at Long Beach, Washington, U.S.A.. Beach erosion and sedimentation were derived using series of detailed terrestrial LIDAR measurements of beach morphology during three low tide periods. Results show significant measured sedimentation and erosion up to 10-20 mm/hour during moderate wind conditions. Spatial variability in bed level changes were found which appeared to be related to the wind orientation and varying bed level characteristics. Around the high waterline, erosion is found during onshore winds whereas sedimentation is observed on the upper beach. The terrestrial lidar data also resolves the migration of bed forms migrating on the upper beach demonstrating its utility of for a range of aeolian sediment transport applications.
...
This paper shows the first results of measured spatial variability of beach erosion due to aeolian processes during the recently conducted SEDEX2 field experiment at Long Beach, Washington, U.S.A.. Beach erosion and sedimentation were derived using series of detailed terrestrial LIDAR measurements of beach morphology during three low tide periods. Results show significant measured sedimentation and erosion up to 10-20 mm/hour during moderate wind conditions. Spatial variability in bed level changes were found which appeared to be related to the wind orientation and varying bed level characteristics. Around the high waterline, erosion is found during onshore winds whereas sedimentation is observed on the upper beach. The terrestrial lidar data also resolves the migration of bed forms migrating on the upper beach demonstrating its utility of for a range of aeolian sediment transport applications.
Abstract
(2016)
-
Sierd de Vries, Anne Verheijen, Nicholas Cohn, Sander Vos, Bas Hoonhout, Peter Ruggiero
Coastal dunes are generally dynamic due to a combination of marine and aeolian sediment transport processes. The growth of coastal dunes is generally governed by wind driven sediment transport. Quantifying and predicting aeolian sediment transport processes is a scientific and practical challenge. This is caused by the uncertainties in the relative importance of the transport capacity of the wind and the availability of sediment (or sediment supply). Especially sediment supply has recently been hypothesized to be of governing importance but no quantitative knowledge is available yet. The intertidal zone adds further complexity since sediment supply is likely influenced by alternating marine and aeolian processes on the tide timescale. However, while sediment availability is likely to vary along the coastal zone, no measurements of sediment supply and availability has been successful in the past.
In this study we use detailed measurements of wind driven erosion and sedimentation in the intertidal and supra-tidal coastal zone to quantify sediment supply for aeolian sediment transport and associated dune growth. During the 6 weeks SEDEX2 field campaign, a RIEGL 200VZ laser scanner is used to collect high resolution topographic data with 15-minute intervals during several tidal cycles. The data reveals the small but significant erosion in the intertidal zone due to wind driven processes within a tidal cycle for the first time. At the same time the small but significant sedimentation at the dry beach and dunes is measured on the tidal timescale. These data are essential in understanding sediment exchange between marine and aeolian zones and the growth of coastal dunes. ...
In this study we use detailed measurements of wind driven erosion and sedimentation in the intertidal and supra-tidal coastal zone to quantify sediment supply for aeolian sediment transport and associated dune growth. During the 6 weeks SEDEX2 field campaign, a RIEGL 200VZ laser scanner is used to collect high resolution topographic data with 15-minute intervals during several tidal cycles. The data reveals the small but significant erosion in the intertidal zone due to wind driven processes within a tidal cycle for the first time. At the same time the small but significant sedimentation at the dry beach and dunes is measured on the tidal timescale. These data are essential in understanding sediment exchange between marine and aeolian zones and the growth of coastal dunes. ...
Coastal dunes are generally dynamic due to a combination of marine and aeolian sediment transport processes. The growth of coastal dunes is generally governed by wind driven sediment transport. Quantifying and predicting aeolian sediment transport processes is a scientific and practical challenge. This is caused by the uncertainties in the relative importance of the transport capacity of the wind and the availability of sediment (or sediment supply). Especially sediment supply has recently been hypothesized to be of governing importance but no quantitative knowledge is available yet. The intertidal zone adds further complexity since sediment supply is likely influenced by alternating marine and aeolian processes on the tide timescale. However, while sediment availability is likely to vary along the coastal zone, no measurements of sediment supply and availability has been successful in the past.
In this study we use detailed measurements of wind driven erosion and sedimentation in the intertidal and supra-tidal coastal zone to quantify sediment supply for aeolian sediment transport and associated dune growth. During the 6 weeks SEDEX2 field campaign, a RIEGL 200VZ laser scanner is used to collect high resolution topographic data with 15-minute intervals during several tidal cycles. The data reveals the small but significant erosion in the intertidal zone due to wind driven processes within a tidal cycle for the first time. At the same time the small but significant sedimentation at the dry beach and dunes is measured on the tidal timescale. These data are essential in understanding sediment exchange between marine and aeolian zones and the growth of coastal dunes.
In this study we use detailed measurements of wind driven erosion and sedimentation in the intertidal and supra-tidal coastal zone to quantify sediment supply for aeolian sediment transport and associated dune growth. During the 6 weeks SEDEX2 field campaign, a RIEGL 200VZ laser scanner is used to collect high resolution topographic data with 15-minute intervals during several tidal cycles. The data reveals the small but significant erosion in the intertidal zone due to wind driven processes within a tidal cycle for the first time. At the same time the small but significant sedimentation at the dry beach and dunes is measured on the tidal timescale. These data are essential in understanding sediment exchange between marine and aeolian zones and the growth of coastal dunes.
Crossing the Shoreline Divide
Toward modeling the co-evolution of dune, beach and nearshore systems (Invited)
Abstract
(2016)
-
Laura J. Moore, Peter Ruggiero, Dano Roelvink, Nicholas Cohn, Bas Hoonhout, Orencio Duran Vinent, Evan B. Goldstein, Sierd de Vries
Duran and Moore (2013) recently extended the model of Hermann et al. (2008) to create an aeolian eco-morphodynamic model (the Coastal Dune Model, CDM) to simulate the formation of coastal foredunes. De Vries et al. (2014) initiated development of a model to simulate the influence of supply-limiting factors on aeolian transport (now the AeoLiS model). Roelvink et al. (2009) developed a modelling approach to dune erosion, overwashing and breaching (XBeach), which connects the upper shoreface with dune systems during storms. Despite the importance of interactions that occur across the spatial domains and range of conditions represented by these process-based models, CDM and AeoLiS treat storm erosion in a schematized way and XBeach does not address inter-storm development of topography. Thus, we are collaborating to develop WindSurf, consisting of: (1) XBeach (2) CDM and (3) AeoLiS. In addressing both subaqueous and subaerial sediment transport and erosion during storms as well as inter-storm evolution of subaerial topography, the resulting coupled model will allow, for the first time, process-based simulation of event- and decadal-scale co-evolution of nearshore, beach and dune systems.
...
Duran and Moore (2013) recently extended the model of Hermann et al. (2008) to create an aeolian eco-morphodynamic model (the Coastal Dune Model, CDM) to simulate the formation of coastal foredunes. De Vries et al. (2014) initiated development of a model to simulate the influence of supply-limiting factors on aeolian transport (now the AeoLiS model). Roelvink et al. (2009) developed a modelling approach to dune erosion, overwashing and breaching (XBeach), which connects the upper shoreface with dune systems during storms. Despite the importance of interactions that occur across the spatial domains and range of conditions represented by these process-based models, CDM and AeoLiS treat storm erosion in a schematized way and XBeach does not address inter-storm development of topography. Thus, we are collaborating to develop WindSurf, consisting of: (1) XBeach (2) CDM and (3) AeoLiS. In addressing both subaqueous and subaerial sediment transport and erosion during storms as well as inter-storm evolution of subaerial topography, the resulting coupled model will allow, for the first time, process-based simulation of event- and decadal-scale co-evolution of nearshore, beach and dune systems.
Abstract
(2016)
-
Bas Hoonhout, Nicholas Cohn, Sierd de Vries, Dano Roelvink, P Ruggiero, Laura Moore, Orencio Duran Vinent, Evan B. Goldstein
The Sand Motor is an artificial sandy peninsula extruding from the Dutch coast about 1 kilometer into the North Sea (Stive et al., 2013). It is virtually permanently exposed to tides, waves and wind and is consequently highly dynamic. In order to understand the complex morphological behavior of the Sand Motor, it is vital to take both subtidal and subaerial processes into account.
About 70% of the Sand Motor area is located above 2m+MSL and is therefore uniquely shaped by subaerial processes. These dry areas are hardly eroded due to the presence of a coarse sand armor layer that was naturally established over time. However, significant aeolian transport is observed originating from the intertidal beaches surrounding the Sand Motor. Due to periodic flooding no armor layer can be established in the intertidal zone. Consequently, subtidal processes significantly influence the subaerial morphology.
An international collaboration initiated the development of the open-source Windsurf modeling framework that enables us to simulate multi-fraction sediment transport due to subtidal and subaerial processes simultaneously. The Windsurf framework couples separate model cores for subtidal (XBeach; Roelvink, 2006) and subaerial morphodynamics (Coastal Dune Model; Duran and Moore, 2013) and multi-fraction aeolian sediment supply (AeoLiS; based on work by de Vries, 2015). Preliminary model results from a one-year one-dimensional simulation show a concentration of aeolian sediment supply from the intertidal beach area during calm conditions and an elevated aeolian activity shortly after a strong wind or surge event. The period of elevated transport may last for over a week resulting in the immediate initiation of recovery after a surge.
Here we will present an application of the Windsurf modeling framework on the Sand Motor and a detailed description on how the interaction between subtidal and subaerial processes explain its complex morphological development.
...
The Sand Motor is an artificial sandy peninsula extruding from the Dutch coast about 1 kilometer into the North Sea (Stive et al., 2013). It is virtually permanently exposed to tides, waves and wind and is consequently highly dynamic. In order to understand the complex morphological behavior of the Sand Motor, it is vital to take both subtidal and subaerial processes into account.
About 70% of the Sand Motor area is located above 2m+MSL and is therefore uniquely shaped by subaerial processes. These dry areas are hardly eroded due to the presence of a coarse sand armor layer that was naturally established over time. However, significant aeolian transport is observed originating from the intertidal beaches surrounding the Sand Motor. Due to periodic flooding no armor layer can be established in the intertidal zone. Consequently, subtidal processes significantly influence the subaerial morphology.
An international collaboration initiated the development of the open-source Windsurf modeling framework that enables us to simulate multi-fraction sediment transport due to subtidal and subaerial processes simultaneously. The Windsurf framework couples separate model cores for subtidal (XBeach; Roelvink, 2006) and subaerial morphodynamics (Coastal Dune Model; Duran and Moore, 2013) and multi-fraction aeolian sediment supply (AeoLiS; based on work by de Vries, 2015). Preliminary model results from a one-year one-dimensional simulation show a concentration of aeolian sediment supply from the intertidal beach area during calm conditions and an elevated aeolian activity shortly after a strong wind or surge event. The period of elevated transport may last for over a week resulting in the immediate initiation of recovery after a surge.
Here we will present an application of the Windsurf modeling framework on the Sand Motor and a detailed description on how the interaction between subtidal and subaerial processes explain its complex morphological development.
Abstract
(2016)
-
Nicholas Cohn, Bas Hoonhout, P Ruggiero, Laura Moore, Sierd de Vries, Dano Roelvink, Orencio Duran Vinent, Evan B. Goldstein
The interface between the land and sea is complex. During high energy conditions large waves and elevated water levels can cause severe beach and dune erosion, whereas recovery takes place during extended periods of calm. Recent advances in numerical modeling have improved our ability to accurately model both storm-induced coastal hazards (e.g., XBeach; Roelvink et al., 2009), aeolian sediment transport in supply limited conditions (de Vries et. al. 2014), and dune eco-morphodynamics (e.g., Coastal Dune Model; Duran and Moore, 2013). However, process based numerical models incorporating the co-evolution of the coastal zone due to both subaqueous and subaerial processes to our knowledge, do not exist; hindering accurate forecasts of seasonal- to decadal-scale coastal evolution. Addressing this community need, a recent international collaboration has initiated the development of the open-source coupled numerical model Windsurf. Under the Windsurf framework, the coupled system resolves the most important subtidal and supratidal physical and ecological processes during both calm accretive conditions and high energy erosive periods.
Here we present the coupled model’s ability to simulate short-term beach and dune building processes on daily to seasonal time scales. The welding of intertidal sandbars to the shoreline has long been recognized as an important mechanism for beach and dune building (e.g., Houser, 2009) as beaches are often supply limited. Field experiments on the Oregon coast indicate that discrete sandbar welding events can deliver as much as 20 m3/m of sand from the nearshore to the backshore via the intertidal, resulting in shoreline progradation, backshore aggradation, and dune growth. Here we compare these field observations to model simulations demonstrating Windsurf’s ability to simulate beach-dune exchanges in supply limited scenarios.
...
The interface between the land and sea is complex. During high energy conditions large waves and elevated water levels can cause severe beach and dune erosion, whereas recovery takes place during extended periods of calm. Recent advances in numerical modeling have improved our ability to accurately model both storm-induced coastal hazards (e.g., XBeach; Roelvink et al., 2009), aeolian sediment transport in supply limited conditions (de Vries et. al. 2014), and dune eco-morphodynamics (e.g., Coastal Dune Model; Duran and Moore, 2013). However, process based numerical models incorporating the co-evolution of the coastal zone due to both subaqueous and subaerial processes to our knowledge, do not exist; hindering accurate forecasts of seasonal- to decadal-scale coastal evolution. Addressing this community need, a recent international collaboration has initiated the development of the open-source coupled numerical model Windsurf. Under the Windsurf framework, the coupled system resolves the most important subtidal and supratidal physical and ecological processes during both calm accretive conditions and high energy erosive periods.
Here we present the coupled model’s ability to simulate short-term beach and dune building processes on daily to seasonal time scales. The welding of intertidal sandbars to the shoreline has long been recognized as an important mechanism for beach and dune building (e.g., Houser, 2009) as beaches are often supply limited. Field experiments on the Oregon coast indicate that discrete sandbar welding events can deliver as much as 20 m3/m of sand from the nearshore to the backshore via the intertidal, resulting in shoreline progradation, backshore aggradation, and dune growth. Here we compare these field observations to model simulations demonstrating Windsurf’s ability to simulate beach-dune exchanges in supply limited scenarios.
Beach and dune building processes
Linking nearshore to backshore and events to decades (Invited)
Abstract
(2016)
-
Peter Ruggiero, Nicholas Cohn, Sally Hacker, Laura J. Moore, Orencio Duran Vinent, Sierd de Vries
Due to the wide range of complex processes in the active coastal zone, individual studies have tended to focus on specific time scales (e.g., event-scale erosion) and/or specific morphological units, (e.g., the nearshore bar zone). As a result, the wet and dry portions of the beach have typically been studied independently. In nature, however, the nearshore and the backshore are highly interdependent and understanding the linkages between these units is critical to characterizing coastal evolution. For example, during periods of intense storm conditions (e.g., major El Niños on the U.S. West Coast), elevated water levels and large waves commonly lead to the scarping, or even destruction, of wind formed dunes. Given that dunes act as a form of green infrastructure and are a major asset to the coastal zone, it is critical to be able to forecast backshore evolution. Existing models for backshore recovery, however, are typically based on local historical trends rather than a mechanistic understanding including onshore sediment transport, dune growth, and the role of ecomorphodynamic feedbacks. Therefore, most likely as a result of the historical academic separation of wave and wind driven processes, geomorphology and ecology, and short- and long-term processes, our understanding of beach and dune building is still in its infancy. Here we describe SEDEX2, the Sandbar-aEolian-Dune EXchange Experiment, a comprehensive summer 2016 field campaign in which measurements of waves, currents, wind, dune ecology, subaqueous and aeolian sediment transport, and subsequent morphological changes were collected along the Long Beach Peninsula, WA. The data collected during the six-week experiment are contextualized by nearly two decades of focused research on the seasonal-centennial scale evolution of this rapidly prograding system. The findings of this study, actively bridging across disciplines, morphometric units, and temporal scales are informing conceptual and numerical models of beach-dune interaction and helping to improve management of vital backshore resources.
...
Due to the wide range of complex processes in the active coastal zone, individual studies have tended to focus on specific time scales (e.g., event-scale erosion) and/or specific morphological units, (e.g., the nearshore bar zone). As a result, the wet and dry portions of the beach have typically been studied independently. In nature, however, the nearshore and the backshore are highly interdependent and understanding the linkages between these units is critical to characterizing coastal evolution. For example, during periods of intense storm conditions (e.g., major El Niños on the U.S. West Coast), elevated water levels and large waves commonly lead to the scarping, or even destruction, of wind formed dunes. Given that dunes act as a form of green infrastructure and are a major asset to the coastal zone, it is critical to be able to forecast backshore evolution. Existing models for backshore recovery, however, are typically based on local historical trends rather than a mechanistic understanding including onshore sediment transport, dune growth, and the role of ecomorphodynamic feedbacks. Therefore, most likely as a result of the historical academic separation of wave and wind driven processes, geomorphology and ecology, and short- and long-term processes, our understanding of beach and dune building is still in its infancy. Here we describe SEDEX2, the Sandbar-aEolian-Dune EXchange Experiment, a comprehensive summer 2016 field campaign in which measurements of waves, currents, wind, dune ecology, subaqueous and aeolian sediment transport, and subsequent morphological changes were collected along the Long Beach Peninsula, WA. The data collected during the six-week experiment are contextualized by nearly two decades of focused research on the seasonal-centennial scale evolution of this rapidly prograding system. The findings of this study, actively bridging across disciplines, morphometric units, and temporal scales are informing conceptual and numerical models of beach-dune interaction and helping to improve management of vital backshore resources.