Nature-based flood defences receive increasing interest as a viable option for improving flood safety worldwide. A contemporary case is using the ability of saltmarshes to attenuate waves during storm conditions for strengthening coastal flood defences. To ensure a long-term reinforcement of flood protection, it is important to understand the erosion mechanisms of saltmarshes during storms. One of the critical locations for erosion is at the transition between the saltmarsh and the bare mudflat, often characterized by a vertical step or cliff. These cliffs vary between 0.2 to 2.0 m in height, depending on soil characteristics and local hydrodynamics. However, wave-induced hydrodynamics that controls the (mass) erosion at the saltmarsh cliff are not fully understood. Also the role of saltmarsh vegetation on these near-cliff hydrodynamics are not clearly quantified. In this research, we present high-resolution measurements of wave-induced hydrodynamics at a saltmarsh cliff performed in a scaled wave flume experiment.

Storm surge barriers and closure dams influence estuarine morphology. Minimizing consequential ecological impacts requires a thorough understanding of the morphological adaptation mechanisms and associated time scales. Both are unraveled using three decades of morphological measurements on the adaptation of the Eastern Scheldt estuary (The Netherlands) to a storm surge barrier and closure dams. Both the storm surge barrier (through a decrease in cross-sectional area) and closure dams (inducing a reduction in surface area of the estuary) contributed to a reduction in tidal prism. As a smaller tidal prism implies a smaller equilibrium volume of the channels, the channels demand sediment to adjust. Consequently, by providing sediment to the channels, the intertidal flats erode. Erosion rates decreased while the sediment demand of the channels attenuated. This attenuation in sediment demand resulted mainly from tidal prism gains, caused by intertidal flat erosion and sea level rise. Erosion rates of the intertidal flats decreased further while they flattened to adapt to the reduced tidal velocities. Furthermore, storms caused erosion events, after which the long-term adaptation pace of intertidal flats suddenly reduced. Despite decreasing erosion, sea level rise enhances the drowning of intertidal flats in sediment-scarce estuarine systems, thereby pressuring these estuarine ecosystems and raising the need for mitigation measures.

The long-term sediment demand of the Dutch coast is integral to the current Dutch Coastal Flood and Erosion Risk Management policy. The Coastal Genesis 2 research programme was initiated to address the sustainability of this policy under sea level rise by focusing on key uncertainties in the conceptual model of the sediment demand of the Dutch coast. The substantive scientific contributions of the Coastal Genesis 2 research programme are analysed in this paper by applying an output-outcome-impact framework. The direct outputs of the programme are categorised in terms of the knowledge types of a 5-element framework, namely measurement data, simulation models, system understanding, conceptual models, and policy and practice. The research outcomes arise from the interactions of these knowledge types. Our analysis of these outcomes highlights that synthesising new scientific insights into shared conceptual models is critical to achieving impact in policy and practice. In the Dutch situation, a new shared conceptual model of the long-term sediment demand enabled the development of four potential nourishment strategies aiming to meet the strategic goals of the Coastal Flood and Erosion Risk Management policy on a timescale up to 20 years. In 2021, the Minister of Infrastructure and Water Management officially articulated her intention to adopt the advised nourishment strategy from 2024 onwards. This represents a lasting impact of the Coastal Genesis 2 research programme in policy and practice. Further, the insight regarding the pivotal role of shared conceptual models as intermediary between science, policy and practice may prove useful in the design of future research programmes aiming to influence policy.

The present work presents physical laboratory measurements of surface elevation and pore water pressures in a fine sand bed under bichromatic waves in a large-scale laboratory experiment. This was done at three cross-shore locations in the swash zone, with pressures being measured at different depths in the bed. The measurements show that the pore pressure signal decays and shifts with increased depth. These measurements are used to validate a practical model, based on the theory of Yamamoto et al. (1978, https://doi.org/10.1017/S0022112078003006) and Guest and Hay (2017, https://doi.org/10.1002/2016JC012257). The model corresponds well with the measurements (nRMSE < 0.2 and R² > 0.95 for most probes) and shows that a frequency-based model can reproduce the pressures in the bed, despite the bed being exposed during dry periods. Furthermore, the model provides the opportunity to calculate pressure gradients, both throughout the bed and at the bed surface. These modeled pressure gradients at the bed surface show that the vertical pressure gradient can have an important impact on the Shields parameter, thereby influencing sediment transport.