B.C. van Prooijen
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1
Coastal sediment budgets are a foundational source of information for coastal management decision-making. To quantify these budgets, coastal systems are often divided into “cells” based on jurisdictional boundaries or topography. However, such divisions do not account for the pathways that water and sediment particles actually take. In this study we quantify cell boundaries that emerge from numerical simulations of sand and water pathways in a barrier island-lagoon system in the Netherlands (the Western Wadden Sea). By quantifying Lagrangian particle pathways as a network, we can derive internally well-connected but externally disconnected modules. Here we show that large (O(10 km)) coherent modules develop from flow patterns at tidal timescales (12.5 h), and are persistent through varying tide and weather conditions. Conversely, modules derived from 100 µm sand pathways are less coherent and highly spatially fragmented. The difference in patterns likely relates to the longer timescales associated with sediment transport. These emergent patterns could be used to better inform coastal and estuarine management by providing physics-based sediment cell boundaries.
The resulting dataset contains point measurements at five locations in the first campaign and eight locations in the second campaign, including (1) near-bed flow velocities and velocity profiles, (2) wave characteristics, (3) suspended sediment concentrations and transport rates, and (4) local bed level dynamics, as well as data on the sediment composition of (intertidal) seabed samples. Measurements were collected simultaneously for a period of six to eight weeks in both campaigns, although some instruments collected data for only four weeks in the Winter 2023–24 campaign.
This article documents the field observations and data processing, and highlights potential applications. This dataset may contribute to a better understanding of sediment dynamics in the Dutch Wadden Sea, but also advance our understanding of channel-shoal sediment exchange mechanisms in general. It provides the field data for investigating fundamental processes controlling sediment dynamics in tidal systems, such as tide- and wind-driven flows and transport, shallow water wave dynamics, wave and current-induced resuspension, and sediment bed stability.
The data are publicly available in three versions (raw, filtered and tailored datasets) at 4TU Centre for Research Data at https://doi.org/10.4121/bbb85feb-15f9-476f-9598-b6509392117d (van Weerdenburg et al., 2026). ...
The resulting dataset contains point measurements at five locations in the first campaign and eight locations in the second campaign, including (1) near-bed flow velocities and velocity profiles, (2) wave characteristics, (3) suspended sediment concentrations and transport rates, and (4) local bed level dynamics, as well as data on the sediment composition of (intertidal) seabed samples. Measurements were collected simultaneously for a period of six to eight weeks in both campaigns, although some instruments collected data for only four weeks in the Winter 2023–24 campaign.
This article documents the field observations and data processing, and highlights potential applications. This dataset may contribute to a better understanding of sediment dynamics in the Dutch Wadden Sea, but also advance our understanding of channel-shoal sediment exchange mechanisms in general. It provides the field data for investigating fundamental processes controlling sediment dynamics in tidal systems, such as tide- and wind-driven flows and transport, shallow water wave dynamics, wave and current-induced resuspension, and sediment bed stability.
The data are publicly available in three versions (raw, filtered and tailored datasets) at 4TU Centre for Research Data at https://doi.org/10.4121/bbb85feb-15f9-476f-9598-b6509392117d (van Weerdenburg et al., 2026).
Luminescence dating methods are widely used to date coastal sediments, while luminescence tracing methods are a novel application to reconstruct coastal sediment pathways. Both methods rely on subaqueous resetting (bleaching) of luminescence signals by light. Differences in bleaching between grains and/or luminescence signals encode information on the light exposure history of individual grains and therefore yield information on past sediment transport. Here we assess the potential of multi-signal single-grain feldspar luminescence to inform about sediment pathways at Ameland tidal inlet in the Dutch Wadden Sea. We also tested whether nourished and native sands can be distinguished based on their luminescence signals.Single-grain infrared stimulated luminescence (IRSL50) and post-IR IRSL (pIRIR) were measured from samples collected from modern sea-floor deposits across the inlet. Equivalent dose (De) distributions were assessed using the Central Age Model (CAM), and bootstrapped versions of the Minimum Age Model (bMAM) and Maximum Age Model (bMAX) were applied to the IRSL50 De distributions. Spatial trends in CAM and bMAX-De reveal highest inherited doses at the tip of Ameland in the Borndiep channel, decreasing along transport pathways around the ebb-tidal delta. These patterns indicate erosion of Pleistocene sediments in the Borndiep channel and progressive bleaching of luminescence signals upon transport. Low De values in shallow areas reflect repeated reworking of Holocene sands within the active layer. Nourished and native sediments show indistinguishable luminescence characteristics for our dataset due to their shared Holocene origin.
Employing Lagrangian particle tracking models for the study of coastal sediment transport dynamics is highly beneficial as they record the complete history of sediment transport pathways. Correctly simulating bed-particle interactions and its stochastic nature in Lagrangian models is essential to accurately estimate the direction and timescale of sediment transport. In this study we compare and assess the performance of two stochastic approaches for simulating particle erosion and deposition in Lagrangian sediment tracking models: 1) formulations proposed by Soulsby et al. (2011) that calculate probability of particles erosion and deposition from empirically-derived parameters and 2) newly-developed formulations that calculate probability of particles erosion and deposition from physical parameters. The two approaches are evaluated in the Lagrangian sediment tracking model SedTRAILS using a simulation of the dispersal of a pilot ebb-tidal delta nourishment in Ameland Inlet (Wadden Sea, Netherlands) as a case study. Our results show that the new physics-based approach represents the diffusive behavior of the nourished sediment better than the empirical approach. However, the new approach could not be fully validated yet, and the implementation of a slope term for bedload transport in the SedTRAILS transport formulations is necessary to further evaluate the new physics-based approach.
Storm surge barriers and closure dams influence estuarine morphology. Minimizing consequential ecological impacts requires a thorough understanding of the morphological adaptation mechanisms and associated time scales. Both are unraveled using three decades of morphological measurements on the adaptation of the Eastern Scheldt estuary (The Netherlands) to a storm surge barrier and closure dams. Both the storm surge barrier (through a decrease in cross-sectional area) and closure dams (inducing a reduction in surface area of the estuary) contributed to a reduction in tidal prism. As a smaller tidal prism implies a smaller equilibrium volume of the channels, the channels demand sediment to adjust. Consequently, by providing sediment to the channels, the intertidal flats erode. Erosion rates decreased while the sediment demand of the channels attenuated. This attenuation in sediment demand resulted mainly from tidal prism gains, caused by intertidal flat erosion and sea level rise. Erosion rates of the intertidal flats decreased further while they flattened to adapt to the reduced tidal velocities. Furthermore, storms caused erosion events, after which the long-term adaptation pace of intertidal flats suddenly reduced. Despite decreasing erosion, sea level rise enhances the drowning of intertidal flats in sediment-scarce estuarine systems, thereby pressuring these estuarine ecosystems and raising the need for mitigation measures.
Sources of suspended sediments in salt marsh creeks
Field measurements in China and the Netherlands
Marsh creeks are perceived as important conduits for transporting water and sediment between mudflats and marshes. In order to advance the understanding of the transport mechanisms in creeks, the source and ultimate sink of sediment which moves between mudflats and marshes through creek channels need further investigation. Therefore, two field campaigns were conducted in two intertidal systems with varying sediment availability. The water depth, flow velocity, suspended sediment concentration, and bed level change were measured simultaneously in a marsh creek and on the adjacent mudflat in Chongming Island (China) and in Paulina Saltmarsh (the Netherlands). Paulina Saltmarsh is much smaller, more frequently flooded, and has lower sediment concentration than Chongming. These contrasting conditions allow for a comparison of transport mechanisms and functioning of the creek. Both systems first show that the high suspended sediment concentration (SSC) measured in marsh creeks is mainly the consequence of sediment advection rather than local erosion. In addition, erosion in marsh creeks is usually limited during ebb tides, reducing the export of sediment through these creeks. However, differences have been observed between two systems. The measured SSC was highly asymmetric between flood and ebb tides in Chongming. Large peaks in SSC during the flood period can be observed for most tidal cycles. The marsh creeks in Chongming therefore function as conduits for sediment import. Additionally, there are distinct overbank and underbank tides in Chongming. Sediment was trapped and retained in creeks during underbank tides, which can then be eroded and transported to the marsh during subsequent overbank tides. We also observed that mudflats in Chongming quickly recovered after erosion. These mechanisms have not been observed in Paulina Saltmarsh, where net sediment export via the marsh creek was observed due to a lack of abundant sediment in suspension during flood tides. Furthermore, the remaining bed surface of mudflats after an erosion event was stronger than before, limiting further erosion in Paulina Saltmarsh. These findings from the two systems indicate that the role of creeks in sediment import/export depends on the availability of sediment from mudflats, shedding light on nourishment strategies for salt marshes.
Optical turbidity and acoustic sensors have been widely used in laboratory experiments and field studies to investigate suspended particulate matter concentration over the last four decades. Both methods face a serious challenge as laboratory and in-situ calibrations are usually required. Furthermore, in coastal and estuarine environments, the coexistence of mud and sand often results in multimodal particle size distributions, amplifying erroneous measurements. This paper proposes a new approach of combining a pair of optical turbidity-acoustic sensors to estimate the total concentration and sediment composition of a mud/sand mixture in an efficient way without an extensive calibration. More specifically, we first carried out a set of 54 bimodal size regime experiments to derive empirical functions of optical-acoustic signals, concentrations, and mud/sand fractions. The functionalities of these relationships were then tested and validated using more complex multimodal size regime experiments over 30 optical-acoustic pairs of 5 wavelengths (420, 532, 620, 700, 852 nm) and six frequencies (0.5, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 MHz). In the range of our data, without prior knowledge of particle size distribution, combinations between optical wavelengths 620–700 nm and acoustic frequencies 4–6 MHz predict mud/sand fraction and total concentration with the variation <10% for the former and <15% for the later. The results also suggest that acoustic-acoustic signals could be combined to produce meaningful information regarding concentration and mud/sand fraction, while no useful knowledge could be extracted from a combination of optical-optical pairs. This approach therefore enables the robust estimation of suspended sediment concentration and composition, which is particularly practical in cases where calibration data is insufficient.
The survival of salt marshes, especially facing future sea-level rise, requires sediment supply. Sediment can be supplied to salt marshes via two routes: through marsh creeks and over marsh edges. However, the conditions of tides and waves that facilitate sediment import through these two routes remain unclear. To understand when and how sediment is imported into salt marshes, 2-month measurements were conducted to monitor tides, waves, and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in Paulina Saltmarsh, a meso-macrotidal system. The results show that the marsh creek tends to import sediment during neap tides with waves. A tidal cycle with a small tidal range result in weaker flow in the marsh creek during ebb tides, reducing the export of sediment. Waves enhance sediment supply to the marsh creek by eroding mudflats. However, strong waves can directly resuspend sediment in marsh creeks during spring tides when the water level is above the marsh canopy, enhancing sediment export through creeks. Net sediment import over marsh edges requires the opposite tidal and wave conditions: spring tides with weak waves. Spring tides provide stronger hydrodynamics, facilitating sediment import over the marsh edge. Increased SSC during the ebb phase can occur with strong waves over the marsh edge, resulting in net sediment export. Therefore, the net import or export of sediment, through the creek and over the marsh edge, depends on the combination of tidal and wave conditions. These conditions can vary between estuaries and even individual marshes. Understanding these conditions is crucial for better management of salt marshes.
Creeks are essential for salt marshes by conveying water and sediment through this geomorphic system. In this paper, we investigate the mechanisms that determine the residual sediment flux using measurements conducted in tidal creeks in salt marshes of the Yangtze Estuary. A main creek and a secondary creek were studied to explore whether the mechanisms determining residual sediment fluxes through the main creek differ from those in the secondary creek. Measurements in creeks were carried out over 5 years, spanning different months. Sediment import was found during most tides, both in the main creek and the secondary creek, implying that creeks in Chongming generally function as a conveyor belt of sediment into the marsh. However, sediment export can occur during certain overbank tides. When comparing the role of creeks in drainage and sediment delivery, the main creek functions more in delivering sediment while the secondary creek primarily serves as a drainage conduit. To better understand the mechanisms behind sediment fluxes, the residual sediment flux was compared with the residual discharge and the sediment differential (differences in sediment concentration between flood and ebb). Overbank tides generally lead to a net outward discharge as more water from saltmarshes can be concentrated into the marsh creek during ebb tides. This net outward discharge tends to export more sediment during ebb tides. However, due to the sediment abundance during the flood phase in the turbid environment, sediment import can be expected even with the residual export of water. Export of sediment was only found for the few tides with a net outward discharge and a small positive sediment concentration differential. Large negative sediment differentials (larger averaged suspended sediment concentration during ebb tides) have not been observed because the sediment supply during ebb is limited. This paper unravels how the sediment differential and residual discharge contribute to the residual sediment flux, providing a better understanding of sediment dynamics in marsh creek systems.
Increased Utilization of Storm Surge Barriers
A Research Agenda on Estuary Impacts
Rising coastal flood risk and recent disasters are driving interest in the construction of gated storm surge barriers worldwide, with current studies recommending barriers for at least 11 estuaries in the United States alone. Surge barriers partially block estuary-ocean exchange with infrastructure across an estuary or its inlet and include gated areas that are closed only during flood events. They can alter the stratification and salt intrusion, change sedimentary systems, and curtail animal migration and ecosystem connectivity, with impacts growing larger with increasing gate closures. Existing barriers are being used with increasing frequency due to sea level rise. New barrier proposals typically come with maximum closure frequency recommendations, yet the future adherence to them is uncertain. Given that the broader environmental effects and coupled-human dynamics of surge barriers are not well-understood, we present an interdisciplinary research agenda for this increasingly prevalent modification to our coastal zone.
Winds of opportunity
The effects of wind on intertidal flat accretion
Intertidal ecosystems are threatened by sea level rise and anthropogenic pressures. Understanding the processes controlling the morphodynamic developments of tidal flats is crucial for sustainable management of these systems. Analysis of three extensive fieldwork campaigns carried out on two adjacent mudflats fringing the Dutch Western Wadden Sea (from 2016 to 2018) provides important new insights into the conditions controlling a permanent increase of tidal flat elevation (‘accretion’), in which the wind and consolidation processes play a pivotal role. Sediment temporarily settles (‘deposition’) on the flats during a period of high suspended sediment availability and water level setup (often following a storm). A tidal flat accretes when a new layer of sediment over-consolidates: a state in which the bed strength is much larger than it would attain during inundated conditions, due to high stresses experienced during prolonged drying. This happens when a phase of sediment deposition is followed by a sufficiently long period with a low ambient water table (phreatic level) and aerial exposure. The chronological order of sediment deposition and over-consolidation provides a window of opportunity for tidal flat accretion. Such a window of opportunity depends on the hydrodynamic forcing (tides, waves, wind), on the consolidation state of the bed, and on sediment availability. Wind plays a crucial role in creating the conditions for tidal flat accretion because the wind direction influences the duration of a low water table and aerial exposure and therefore (over-)consolidation rates, which we refer to as the ‘winds of opportunity’. An abundance of sediment may even limit tidal flat accretion, because large deposition rates substantially increase consolidation timescales.
Wave attenuation potential, sediment properties and mangrove growth dynamics data over Guyana's intertidal mudflats
Assessing the potential of mangrove restoration works
Suspended sediment concentrations typically exceeded 1 g L−1 with a maximum of 60 g L−1, implying that we measured merely fluid-mud conditions across a 1 m depth. Time series of wind waves and fluid-mud density variations, recorded simultaneously with tide elevation and suspended sediment data, indicate that wave–fluid-mud interactions in the nearshore may be largely responsible for the accumulation of fine, muddy sediment along the coast. Sediment properties reveal a consolidated underlying bed layer. Vegetation coverage densities in the Avicennia-dominated forest were determined across the vertical with maximum values over the first 20 cm from the bed due to the roots and pneumatophores.
Generalized total wave attenuation rates in the forest and along the mudflat were between 0.002–0.0032 m−1 and 0.0003–0.0004 m−1 respectively. Both the mangroves and the mudflats have a high wave-damping capacity. The wave attenuation in the mangroves is presumably dominated by energy losses due to vegetation drag, since wave attenuation due to bottom friction and viscous dissipation on the bare mudflats is significantly lower than wave dissipation inside the mangrove vegetation. Data collected corroborate the coastal defence function of mangroves by quantifying their contribution to wave attenuation and sediment trapping. The explicit linking of these properties to vegetation structure facilitates modelling studies investigating the mechanisms determining the coastal defence capacities of mangroves. ...
Suspended sediment concentrations typically exceeded 1 g L−1 with a maximum of 60 g L−1, implying that we measured merely fluid-mud conditions across a 1 m depth. Time series of wind waves and fluid-mud density variations, recorded simultaneously with tide elevation and suspended sediment data, indicate that wave–fluid-mud interactions in the nearshore may be largely responsible for the accumulation of fine, muddy sediment along the coast. Sediment properties reveal a consolidated underlying bed layer. Vegetation coverage densities in the Avicennia-dominated forest were determined across the vertical with maximum values over the first 20 cm from the bed due to the roots and pneumatophores.
Generalized total wave attenuation rates in the forest and along the mudflat were between 0.002–0.0032 m−1 and 0.0003–0.0004 m−1 respectively. Both the mangroves and the mudflats have a high wave-damping capacity. The wave attenuation in the mangroves is presumably dominated by energy losses due to vegetation drag, since wave attenuation due to bottom friction and viscous dissipation on the bare mudflats is significantly lower than wave dissipation inside the mangrove vegetation. Data collected corroborate the coastal defence function of mangroves by quantifying their contribution to wave attenuation and sediment trapping. The explicit linking of these properties to vegetation structure facilitates modelling studies investigating the mechanisms determining the coastal defence capacities of mangroves.
Coastal aeolian sediment transport in an active bed surface layer
Tracer study and conceptual model
Coastal aeolian sediment transport is influenced by supply-limiting factors caused by sediment sorting by grain size. Sorting processes can lead to coarsening of the bed surface and influence the formation of aeolian ripples. However, the influence sorting processes and bedforms might have on the magnitude of the transport is not fully understood. This study explores sorting processes and their influence on the magnitude and mode of aeolian transport by using sediment tracers. Sand was painted in different colors according to particle size and placed on a supratidal beach in Noordwijk, the Netherlands. Several experiments were conducted with varying wind speeds. Surface sampling and cameras tracked the sand color movement on the bed surface, and wind velocity was measured. The tracer experiments showed that ripples developed in moderate wind conditions. Once the ripples had formed, the supply of finer tracer grains in the downwind direction decreased over time, while the supply of coarser grains remained constant. A linear relationship between ripple migration speed and wind speed was found. For higher wind speeds, no ripples or differences in transport of grain size fractions were observed. Instead, alternating phases of erosion and deposition of the bed surface were observed, which could not be related to local variations in wind velocity. Based on these results and literature, a conceptual model was developed for an active bed surface layer with two transport regimes corresponding to moderate (I) and high (II) wind speeds. The conceptual model is intended to guide the selection of aeolian sediment transport models as a function of wind speed, bed characteristics, and upwind sediment supply. For Regime I, transport could be modeled using a linear relationship between sediment transport and wind speed and for Regime II using a third power relationship in combination with a process-based model accounting for supply limitations.