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B.C. van Prooijen

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Preprint (2026) - R.J.A. van Weerdenburg, Thomas Veerman, Meike Traas, Jan-Willem Mol, D.S. van Maren, Dannie Beks, Maarten van der Vegt, Bram van Prooijen
Two field measurement campaigns were carried out in the Dutch Wadden Sea in winter 2023–24 and in early spring 2025. The campaigns were designed to understand and quantify sediment transport and exchange between morphological units at two spatial scales: on larger scale between two adjacent tidal basins and on smaller scale between individual channels and shoals. These observations support ongoing research to better understand sediment dynamics in the Wadden Sea, and thereby to improve sediment management strategies essential for maintaining coastal functions in the Dutch coastal system over short (days–months) to long (decades) timescales.

The resulting dataset contains point measurements at five locations in the first campaign and eight locations in the second campaign, including (1) near-bed flow velocities and velocity profiles, (2) wave characteristics, (3) suspended sediment concentrations and transport rates, and (4) local bed level dynamics, as well as data on the sediment composition of (intertidal) seabed samples. Measurements were collected simultaneously for a period of six to eight weeks in both campaigns, although some instruments collected data for only four weeks in the Winter 2023–24 campaign.

This article documents the field observations and data processing, and highlights potential applications. This dataset may contribute to a better understanding of sediment dynamics in the Dutch Wadden Sea, but also advance our understanding of channel-shoal sediment exchange mechanisms in general. It provides the field data for investigating fundamental processes controlling sediment dynamics in tidal systems, such as tide- and wind-driven flows and transport, shallow water wave dynamics, wave and current-induced resuspension, and sediment bed stability.

The data are publicly available in three versions (raw, filtered and tailored datasets) at 4TU Centre for Research Data at https://doi.org/10.4121/bbb85feb-15f9-476f-9598-b6509392117d (van Weerdenburg et al., 2026). ...
Book chapter (2026) - Natascia Pannozzo, Stuart G. Pearson, Martin Meijer, Tim de Wilde, Edwin Elias, Bram C. Van Prooijen
Employing Lagrangian particle tracking models for the study of coastal sediment transport dynamics is highly beneficial as they record the complete history of sediment transport pathways. Correctly simulating bed-particle interactions and its stochastic nature in Lagrangian models is essential to accurately estimate the direction and timescale of sediment transport. In this study we compare and assess the performance of two stochastic approaches for simulating particle erosion and deposition in Lagrangian sediment tracking models: 1) formulations proposed by Soulsby et al. (2011) that calculate probability of particles erosion and deposition from empirically-derived parameters and 2) newly-developed formulations that calculate probability of particles erosion and deposition from physical parameters. The two approaches are evaluated in the Lagrangian sediment tracking model SedTRAILS using a simulation of the dispersal of a pilot ebb-tidal delta nourishment in Ameland Inlet (Wadden Sea, Netherlands) as a case study. Our results show that the new physics-based approach represents the diffusive behavior of the nourished sediment better than the empirical approach. However, the new approach could not be fully validated yet, and the implementation of a slope term for bedload transport in the SedTRAILS transport formulations is necessary to further evaluate the new physics-based approach. ...
Journal article (2026) - Anna Maartje de Boer, Stuart Pearson, Ad van der Spek, Bram van Prooijen, Jakob Wallinga
Luminescence dating methods are widely used to date coastal sediments, while luminescence tracing methods are a novel application to reconstruct coastal sediment pathways. Both methods rely on subaqueous resetting (bleaching) of luminescence signals by light. Differences in bleaching between grains and/or luminescence signals encode information on the light exposure history of individual grains and therefore yield information on past sediment transport. Here we assess the potential of multi-signal single-grain feldspar luminescence to inform about sediment pathways at Ameland tidal inlet in the Dutch Wadden Sea. We also tested whether nourished and native sands can be distinguished based on their luminescence signals.Single-grain infrared stimulated luminescence (IRSL50) and post-IR IRSL (pIRIR) were measured from samples collected from modern sea-floor deposits across the inlet. Equivalent dose (De) distributions were assessed using the Central Age Model (CAM), and bootstrapped versions of the Minimum Age Model (bMAM) and Maximum Age Model (bMAX) were applied to the IRSL50 De distributions. Spatial trends in CAM and bMAX-De reveal highest inherited doses at the tip of Ameland in the Borndiep channel, decreasing along transport pathways around the ebb-tidal delta. These patterns indicate erosion of Pleistocene sediments in the Borndiep channel and progressive bleaching of luminescence signals upon transport. Low De values in shallow areas reflect repeated reworking of Holocene sands within the active layer. Nourished and native sediments show indistinguishable luminescence characteristics for our dataset due to their shared Holocene origin. ...
Book chapter (2026) - Stuart G. Pearson, Roy van Weerdenburg, Hassan Shafiei, Johan Reyns, Edwin Elias, Zheng Bing Wang, Quirijn Lodder, Bram van Prooijen
Coastal sediment budgets are a foundational source of information for coastal management decision-making. To quantify these budgets, coastal systems are often divided into “cells” based on jurisdictional boundaries or topography. However, such divisions do not account for the pathways that water and sediment particles actually take. In this study we quantify cell boundaries that emerge from numerical simulations of sand and water pathways in a barrier island-lagoon system in the Netherlands (the Western Wadden Sea). By quantifying Lagrangian particle pathways as a network, we can derive internally well-connected but externally disconnected modules. Here we show that large (O(10 km)) coherent modules develop from flow patterns at tidal timescales (12.5 h), and are persistent through varying tide and weather conditions. Conversely, modules derived from 100 µm sand pathways are less coherent and highly spatially fragmented. The difference in patterns likely relates to the longer timescales associated with sediment transport. These emergent patterns could be used to better inform coastal and estuarine management by providing physics-based sediment cell boundaries. ...
Journal article (2026) - Anna Maartje de Boer, Natascia Pannozzo, Stuart G. Pearson, Tjitske J. Kooistra, Bram van Prooijen, Jakob Wallinga
Quantifying luminescence signal resetting of sand grains in turbid waters is essential for both sediment dating and tracing, yet direct measurement under natural subaqueous conditions remain scarce. Here, we present the first depth-resolved experiment that combines in-situ luminescence resetting, subaqueous light spectra and suspended sediment concentration in a tidal inlet. Sand-sized quartz and feldspar grains were exposed to daylight at multiple depths during a one-day deployment, while optical and sediment conditions were continuously monitored. Single-grain luminescence measurements reveal depth-dependent resetting with a bleaching front below which no significant signal resetting occurs within a day. The position of this bleaching front depends on signal bleachability and agrees with predictions based on spectral irradiance and mineral-specific photo-ionization cross sections. By directly linking subaqueous light conditions, sediment concentration, and mineral-specific bleaching behaviour, our findings provide empirical quantification that can inform luminescence dating, provenance studies, and tracing of sediment transport in dynamic coastal systems. ...
Journal article (2025) - Jianliang Lin, Chunyan Zhu, Jianwei Sun, Weiming Xie, Bram van Prooijen, Leicheng Guo, Qing He, Qingshu Yang, Zheng Bing Wang
Decomposing turbulence from waves remains challenging due to frequency overlap and wave-turbulence interactions. Existing decomposition methods, e.g., moving average, energy spectrum analysis, and synchrosqueezed wavelet transform (SWT), produce inconsistent turbulence estimates. Here, we introduce a rotating-coordinate-based method (RoCoM), founded on two assumptions: (1) the energy spectrum in the cross-wave direction remains unaffected by wave orbital velocities, and (2) wave-wise and vertical turbulence spectra are linearly proportional to the cross-wave spectrum, with proportional constants derived from frequencies higher than the wave-dominated frequency range. Both assumptions were validated with observational data collected from the Changjiang Estuary. Comparative analyses using both in-situ observations and controlled laboratory experiments show RoCoM avoids the energy trough problem inherent in the moving average and SWT methods, yielding the most accurate power spectra and turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) estimates. In-situ data reveal that the relative errors of RoCoM are approximately 16 % for total TKE and about 6 % for TKE within the wave-dominated frequency range. Laboratory experiments further confirm its superior accuracy, demonstrating relative errors of approximately 14 % for total TKE and about 7 % for wave-band TKE. RoCoM holds significant implications for marine material transport and coastal energy development by providing robust and precise turbulence and wave energy estimates. Nonetheless, its application is currently best suited for scenarios with predominant wave propagation from a single direction, while SWT remains advantageous in environments characterized by broader directional wave spreading. ...
Journal article (2025) - Tjitske J. Kooistra, Steven H. Haarbosch, Jorn W. Bosma, Tjeerd J. Bouma, Bram C. van Prooijen, Karline Soetaert, Stuart G. Pearson
The seabed rarely consists solely of bare sand: often other materials, such as shells are present. They can influence sand transport by armoring the bed and modifying its roughness. Biogenic shells come in different shapes and sizes, depending on the mollusc species that produce them. To understand how changes in bivalve species composition affect sediment transport, we need a mechanistic understanding of how shell content and shell shape influence the near-bed flow and sand transport. We performed experiments in a racetrack flume, testing the effect of elongated (Ensis leei) versus rounded (Spisula subtruncata) shells on unidirectional current-driven sand transport. For both types of shells, a higher depth-averaged flow velocity was needed for initiation of motion and a decrease in bedload transport of sand was found. At a shell content of 20%, the threshold of motion of sand increased up to 75%, and bedload transport was reduced by up to 50%. These effects are explained by a balance between roughness-induced turbulence and bed armoring. Compared to a bare bed, shells decreased bed roughness by reducing ripple formation; rounded shells lowered roughness more than elongated shells, which formed roughness elements themselves, but also covered a larger fraction of the bed. However, there was no clear difference between round versus elongated shells on the overall sand transport; only shell content was key for the overall effect. Our results imply that sediment transport is likely overpredicted when a high number of shells is present in the seabed. ...
The Norwegian Trench (NT) is the main pathway for North Sea water into the Atlantic Ocean and for Atlantic Water (AW) into the North Sea. The processes that determine the cross-shelf exchange through the NT are key to understanding the variability of the salt budgets in the North Sea. Here, high-resolution numerical simulations from Copernicus Marine Services (CMEMS) for two recent years (2022, 2023) reveal new sources of variability of the flows in the NT. We find that wind regulates the flows in the NT, particularly in enabling the outflow of the fresh-water river plume, the Norwegian Coastal Current (NCC), in the Skagerrak during easterly wind conditions. Strong NCC outflows are associated with transport in a northward direction into the Atlantic Ocean. Furthermore, intensified eddy activity at the surface is found during strong NCC flows, causing high velocity surface currents sometimes exceeding magnitudes of 1 m/s. AW inflows partly compensate the northward outflows, keeping the net transport of 2–3 Sv constant over both years. However, the magnitudes of the AW inflows are small compared to the NCC. AW inflows that are comparable to the NCC outflows only occur during northerly winds in winter. We show that the variability of surface flows in the NT is wind induced, but that the effects of the canyon-like shape of the NT and seasonality of winds and river discharges introduce more variable deep flows than previously considered. ...
Journal article (2025) - Jianliang Lin, Bram C. van Prooijen, Chunyan Zhu, Leicheng Guo, Qing He, Zheng Bing Wang, Qingshu Yang
Channel deepening and narrowing are common anthropogenic modifications in estuaries, but their combined effects on estuarine circulation, stratification, and sediment transport remain insufficiently understood. This study investigates these combined impacts in the North Passage of the Changjiang Estuary, where large-scale deepening and narrowing have significantly altered hydrodynamic and sediment processes. Our analysis demonstrates that channel deepening intensifies estuarine circulation by strengthening the landward near-bed flow, thereby enhancing sediment import. Contrary to initial expectations that narrowing would promote sediment flushing, our results indicate that narrowing increases stratification, steepens along-estuary salinity gradients, and suppresses vertical mixing. Intensified stratification further reinforces estuarine circulation, promoting sediment trapping at the saltwater intrusion limit. Additionally, enhanced tidal pumping driven by increased velocity and suspended sediment concentration gradients extends the estuarine turbidity maximum both upstream and downstream, a process often overlooked in engineered estuaries. These findings challenge conventional assumptions regarding the sedimentary impacts of narrowing, emphasizing instead its critical role in amplifying estuarine circulation and sediment trapping. Our results provide new insights into sediment dynamics in river-dominated estuaries, with significant implications for estuarine management, dredging operations, water quality control, and long-term morphological stability. ...
Journal article (2024) - Jianwei Sun, Bram van Prooijen, Xianye Wang, Weiming Xie, Fan Xu, Qing He, Zhengbing Wang
The survival of salt marshes, especially facing future sea-level rise, requires sediment supply. Sediment can be supplied to salt marshes via two routes: through marsh creeks and over marsh edges. However, the conditions of tides and waves that facilitate sediment import through these two routes remain unclear. To understand when and how sediment is imported into salt marshes, 2-month measurements were conducted to monitor tides, waves, and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in Paulina Saltmarsh, a meso-macrotidal system. The results show that the marsh creek tends to import sediment during neap tides with waves. A tidal cycle with a small tidal range result in weaker flow in the marsh creek during ebb tides, reducing the export of sediment. Waves enhance sediment supply to the marsh creek by eroding mudflats. However, strong waves can directly resuspend sediment in marsh creeks during spring tides when the water level is above the marsh canopy, enhancing sediment export through creeks. Net sediment import over marsh edges requires the opposite tidal and wave conditions: spring tides with weak waves. Spring tides provide stronger hydrodynamics, facilitating sediment import over the marsh edge. Increased SSC during the ebb phase can occur with strong waves over the marsh edge, resulting in net sediment export. Therefore, the net import or export of sediment, through the creek and over the marsh edge, depends on the combination of tidal and wave conditions. These conditions can vary between estuaries and even individual marshes. Understanding these conditions is crucial for better management of salt marshes. ...
For the management of estuaries and the preservation of tidal flats it is crucial to understand the tidal flat shape and development. Previous work focused predominantly on the quasi-equilibrium shape of tidal flats along open coasts with a dominant cross-shore flow and wave exposure. This paper evaluates the shape of fringing tidal flats in engineered estuaries, where longshore velocities generally dominate. Using a long-term (20 years) topographic data set of an anthropogenically modified estuary in the Netherlands (the Western Scheldt estuary), we relate key profile shape parameters and changes over time to natural and anthropogenic processes. In an engineered estuary, the tidal flat shape depends on the estuary geometry, hydrodynamic forcings and human interventions. In contrast to open coast tidal flats, the presence of the channel and dominant longshore flow determines the available cross-shore length (accommodation space) of the tidal flat and the shape of the tidal flat. This accommodation space defines the maximum tidal flat height and opportunity for marsh development. We propose the use of the Index of Development, indicating to what extend tidal flats have space to develop. This index is not only influenced by longshore and cross-shore flow, but also (or even more) by hydraulic structures, dike realignments and channel migration. Especially the latter two strongly influence the accommodation space and thereby the maximum tidal flat height and the opportunity for marsh development. For large stretches of the Western Scheldt, the accommodation space is too small, and the majority of the tidal flats do not vertically extent to mean high water. The success of tidal flat and marsh restoration projects depends on the accommodation space. ...

Field measurements in China and the Netherlands

Journal article (2024) - Jianwei Sun, Bram van Prooijen, Xianye Wang, Jill Hanssen, Weiming Xie, Jianliang Lin, Yuan Xu, Qing He, Zhengbing Wang
Marsh creeks are perceived as important conduits for transporting water and sediment between mudflats and marshes. In order to advance the understanding of the transport mechanisms in creeks, the source and ultimate sink of sediment which moves between mudflats and marshes through creek channels need further investigation. Therefore, two field campaigns were conducted in two intertidal systems with varying sediment availability. The water depth, flow velocity, suspended sediment concentration, and bed level change were measured simultaneously in a marsh creek and on the adjacent mudflat in Chongming Island (China) and in Paulina Saltmarsh (the Netherlands). Paulina Saltmarsh is much smaller, more frequently flooded, and has lower sediment concentration than Chongming. These contrasting conditions allow for a comparison of transport mechanisms and functioning of the creek. Both systems first show that the high suspended sediment concentration (SSC) measured in marsh creeks is mainly the consequence of sediment advection rather than local erosion. In addition, erosion in marsh creeks is usually limited during ebb tides, reducing the export of sediment through these creeks. However, differences have been observed between two systems. The measured SSC was highly asymmetric between flood and ebb tides in Chongming. Large peaks in SSC during the flood period can be observed for most tidal cycles. The marsh creeks in Chongming therefore function as conduits for sediment import. Additionally, there are distinct overbank and underbank tides in Chongming. Sediment was trapped and retained in creeks during underbank tides, which can then be eroded and transported to the marsh during subsequent overbank tides. We also observed that mudflats in Chongming quickly recovered after erosion. These mechanisms have not been observed in Paulina Saltmarsh, where net sediment export via the marsh creek was observed due to a lack of abundant sediment in suspension during flood tides. Furthermore, the remaining bed surface of mudflats after an erosion event was stronger than before, limiting further erosion in Paulina Saltmarsh. These findings from the two systems indicate that the role of creeks in sediment import/export depends on the availability of sediment from mudflats, shedding light on nourishment strategies for salt marshes. ...
Journal article (2024) - Jianwei Sun, Bram van Prooijen, Xianye Wang, Zhonghao Zhao, Qing He, Zhengbing Wang
Creeks are essential for salt marshes by conveying water and sediment through this geomorphic system. In this paper, we investigate the mechanisms that determine the residual sediment flux using measurements conducted in tidal creeks in salt marshes of the Yangtze Estuary. A main creek and a secondary creek were studied to explore whether the mechanisms determining residual sediment fluxes through the main creek differ from those in the secondary creek. Measurements in creeks were carried out over 5 years, spanning different months. Sediment import was found during most tides, both in the main creek and the secondary creek, implying that creeks in Chongming generally function as a conveyor belt of sediment into the marsh. However, sediment export can occur during certain overbank tides. When comparing the role of creeks in drainage and sediment delivery, the main creek functions more in delivering sediment while the secondary creek primarily serves as a drainage conduit. To better understand the mechanisms behind sediment fluxes, the residual sediment flux was compared with the residual discharge and the sediment differential (differences in sediment concentration between flood and ebb). Overbank tides generally lead to a net outward discharge as more water from saltmarshes can be concentrated into the marsh creek during ebb tides. This net outward discharge tends to export more sediment during ebb tides. However, due to the sediment abundance during the flood phase in the turbid environment, sediment import can be expected even with the residual export of water. Export of sediment was only found for the few tides with a net outward discharge and a small positive sediment concentration differential. Large negative sediment differentials (larger averaged suspended sediment concentration during ebb tides) have not been observed because the sediment supply during ebb is limited. This paper unravels how the sediment differential and residual discharge contribute to the residual sediment flux, providing a better understanding of sediment dynamics in marsh creek systems. ...
Journal article (2024) - Loreta Cornacchia, Roeland C. van de Vijsel, Daphne van der Wal, Tom Ysebaert, Jianwei Sun, Bram van Prooijen, Paul Lodewijk Maria de Vet, Quan-Xing Liu, Johan van de Koppel
The adaptive capacity of ecosystems, or their ability to function despite altered environmental conditions, is crucial for resilience to climate change. However, the role of landscape complexity or species traits on adaptive capacity remains unclear. Here, we combine field experiments and morphodynamic modelling to investigate how ecosystem complexity shapes the adaptive capacity of intertidal salt marshes. We focus on the importance of tidal channel network complexity for sediment accumulation, allowing vertical accretion to keep pace with sea-level rise. The model showed that landscape-scale ecosystem complexity, more than species traits, explained higher sediment accumulation rates, despite complexity arising from these traits. Landscape complexity, reflected in creek network morphology, also improved resilience to rising water levels. Comparing model outcomes with real-world tidal networks confirmed that flow concentration, sediment transport and deposition increase with drainage complexity. These findings emphasize that natural pattern development and persistence are crucial to preserve resilience to climate change. ...
Journal article (2024) - P. L.M. de Vet, B. C. van Prooijen, P. M.J. Herman, T. J. Bouma, D. S. van Maren, B. Walles, J. J. van der Werf, T. Ysebaert, E. van Zanten, Z. B. Wang
Storm surge barriers and closure dams influence estuarine morphology. Minimizing consequential ecological impacts requires a thorough understanding of the morphological adaptation mechanisms and associated time scales. Both are unraveled using three decades of morphological measurements on the adaptation of the Eastern Scheldt estuary (The Netherlands) to a storm surge barrier and closure dams. Both the storm surge barrier (through a decrease in cross-sectional area) and closure dams (inducing a reduction in surface area of the estuary) contributed to a reduction in tidal prism. As a smaller tidal prism implies a smaller equilibrium volume of the channels, the channels demand sediment to adjust. Consequently, by providing sediment to the channels, the intertidal flats erode. Erosion rates decreased while the sediment demand of the channels attenuated. This attenuation in sediment demand resulted mainly from tidal prism gains, caused by intertidal flat erosion and sea level rise. Erosion rates of the intertidal flats decreased further while they flattened to adapt to the reduced tidal velocities. Furthermore, storms caused erosion events, after which the long-term adaptation pace of intertidal flats suddenly reduced. Despite decreasing erosion, sea level rise enhances the drowning of intertidal flats in sediment-scarce estuarine systems, thereby pressuring these estuarine ecosystems and raising the need for mitigation measures. ...
Journal article (2024) - Duc Tran, Matthias Jacquet, Stuart Pearson, Bram Van Prooijen, Romaric Verney
Optical turbidity and acoustic sensors have been widely used in laboratory experiments and field studies to investigate suspended particulate matter concentration over the last four decades. Both methods face a serious challenge as laboratory and in-situ calibrations are usually required. Furthermore, in coastal and estuarine environments, the coexistence of mud and sand often results in multimodal particle size distributions, amplifying erroneous measurements. This paper proposes a new approach of combining a pair of optical turbidity-acoustic sensors to estimate the total concentration and sediment composition of a mud/sand mixture in an efficient way without an extensive calibration. More specifically, we first carried out a set of 54 bimodal size regime experiments to derive empirical functions of optical-acoustic signals, concentrations, and mud/sand fractions. The functionalities of these relationships were then tested and validated using more complex multimodal size regime experiments over 30 optical-acoustic pairs of 5 wavelengths (420, 532, 620, 700, 852 nm) and six frequencies (0.5, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 MHz). In the range of our data, without prior knowledge of particle size distribution, combinations between optical wavelengths 620–700 nm and acoustic frequencies 4–6 MHz predict mud/sand fraction and total concentration with the variation <10% for the former and <15% for the later. The results also suggest that acoustic-acoustic signals could be combined to produce meaningful information regarding concentration and mud/sand fraction, while no useful knowledge could be extracted from a combination of optical-optical pairs. This approach therefore enables the robust estimation of suspended sediment concentration and composition, which is particularly practical in cases where calibration data is insufficient. ...

A Research Agenda on Estuary Impacts

Journal article (2023) - Philip Orton, David Ralston, Bram van Prooijen, David Secor, Neil Ganju, Ziyu Chen, Sarah Fernald, Bennett Brooks, Kristin Marcell
Rising coastal flood risk and recent disasters are driving interest in the construction of gated storm surge barriers worldwide, with current studies recommending barriers for at least 11 estuaries in the United States alone. Surge barriers partially block estuary-ocean exchange with infrastructure across an estuary or its inlet and include gated areas that are closed only during flood events. They can alter the stratification and salt intrusion, change sedimentary systems, and curtail animal migration and ecosystem connectivity, with impacts growing larger with increasing gate closures. Existing barriers are being used with increasing frequency due to sea level rise. New barrier proposals typically come with maximum closure frequency recommendations, yet the future adherence to them is uncertain. Given that the broader environmental effects and coupled-human dynamics of surge barriers are not well-understood, we present an interdisciplinary research agenda for this increasingly prevalent modification to our coastal zone. ...

The effects of wind on intertidal flat accretion

Intertidal ecosystems are threatened by sea level rise and anthropogenic pressures. Understanding the processes controlling the morphodynamic developments of tidal flats is crucial for sustainable management of these systems. Analysis of three extensive fieldwork campaigns carried out on two adjacent mudflats fringing the Dutch Western Wadden Sea (from 2016 to 2018) provides important new insights into the conditions controlling a permanent increase of tidal flat elevation (‘accretion’), in which the wind and consolidation processes play a pivotal role. Sediment temporarily settles (‘deposition’) on the flats during a period of high suspended sediment availability and water level setup (often following a storm). A tidal flat accretes when a new layer of sediment over-consolidates: a state in which the bed strength is much larger than it would attain during inundated conditions, due to high stresses experienced during prolonged drying. This happens when a phase of sediment deposition is followed by a sufficiently long period with a low ambient water table (phreatic level) and aerial exposure. The chronological order of sediment deposition and over-consolidation provides a window of opportunity for tidal flat accretion. Such a window of opportunity depends on the hydrodynamic forcing (tides, waves, wind), on the consolidation state of the bed, and on sediment availability. Wind plays a crucial role in creating the conditions for tidal flat accretion because the wind direction influences the duration of a low water table and aerial exposure and therefore (over-)consolidation rates, which we refer to as the ‘winds of opportunity’. An abundance of sediment may even limit tidal flat accretion, because large deposition rates substantially increase consolidation timescales. ...
Journal article (2022) - S.G. Pearson, Edwin Elias, Bram van Prooijen, H. van der Vegt, A.J.F. van der Spek, Zhengbing Wang
Ebb tidal deltas (ETDs) are highly dynamic features of sandy coastal systems, and coastal management concerns (e.g., nourishment and navigation) present a pressing need to better describe and quantify their evolution. Here we propose two techniques for leveraging the availability of high-resolution bathymetric surveys to generate new insights into the dynamics and preservation potential of ebb-tidal deltas. The first technique is conformal mapping to polar coordinates, using Ameland ebb-tidal delta in the Netherlands as a case study. Since the delta tends to evolve in a clockwise direction around the inlet, this approach provides an improved quantification and visualization of the morphodynamic behaviour as a timestack. We clearly illustrate the sediment bypassing process and repeated rotational migration of channels and shoals across the inlet from updrift to downdrift coasts. Secondly, we generate a decadal scale (1975–2021) stratigraphic model from the differences between successive bathymetries. This stratigraphy showcases the delta's depositional behaviour through space and time, and provides a modern analogue for prehistoric ebb-tidal deltas. During the surveyed period, inlet fills form the largest and most stable deposits, while the downdrift swash platform is the most stable structure over longer periods. Together, these approaches provide new perspectives on ebb-tidal delta dynamics and preservation potential which are readily applicable to other sites with detailed bathymetric data. These findings are valuable at annual to decadal timescales for coastal management (e.g., for planning sand nourishments) and also at much longer timescales for interpreting stratigraphy in ancient rock records. ...
Coastal aeolian sediment transport is influenced by supply-limiting factors caused by sediment sorting by grain size. Sorting processes can lead to coarsening of the bed surface and influence the formation of aeolian ripples. However, the influence sorting processes and bedforms might have on the magnitude of the transport is not fully understood. This study explores sorting processes and their influence on the magnitude and mode of aeolian transport by using sediment tracers. Sand was painted in different colors according to particle size and placed on a supratidal beach in Noordwijk, the Netherlands. Several experiments were conducted with varying wind speeds. Surface sampling and cameras tracked the sand color movement on the bed surface, and wind velocity was measured. The tracer experiments showed that ripples developed in moderate wind conditions. Once the ripples had formed, the supply of finer tracer grains in the downwind direction decreased over time, while the supply of coarser grains remained constant. A linear relationship between ripple migration speed and wind speed was found. For higher wind speeds, no ripples or differences in transport of grain size fractions were observed. Instead, alternating phases of erosion and deposition of the bed surface were observed, which could not be related to local variations in wind velocity. Based on these results and literature, a conceptual model was developed for an active bed surface layer with two transport regimes corresponding to moderate (I) and high (II) wind speeds. The conceptual model is intended to guide the selection of aeolian sediment transport models as a function of wind speed, bed characteristics, and upwind sediment supply. For Regime I, transport could be modeled using a linear relationship between sediment transport and wind speed and for Regime II using a third power relationship in combination with a process-based model accounting for supply limitations. ...