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J.D. Pietrzak

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Journal article (2025) - Zeinab Safar, Claire Chassagne, Sabine Rijnsburger, Raúl P. Flores, Julie D. Pietrzak, Alejandro J. Souza, Thijs van Kessel, Alexander Horner-Devine
Introduction: In this study we investigate the Suspended Particulate Matter (SPM) source and dynamics in terms of resuspension and advection in the mid field region of Rhine Region Of Freshwater Influence (Rhine-ROFI). In this area of the Rhine-ROFI, the sediment transport mechanisms are governed by the Rhine freshwater plume originating from the Rhine-Meuse estuary and propagating towards the coast in northward direction. Methods: The SPM near the bottom at a mooring located at 12m of water depth is analyzed in terms of concentration, particle size and shape in correlation with frontal dynamics and weather conditions for two seasons of winter 2013 (12 February - 07 March) and autumn 2014 (17 September - 06 October). Results and discussion: The freshwater front transports organic matter (such as microalgae strains and other organic matter) from the estuary into the coastal area. In calm weather conditions in autumn, most particles in suspension are of low density and high anisotropy. These particles are recognized as elongated algae strains with some organic matter-clay aggregates (flocs), giving trimodal Particle Size Distributions (PSD). During the neap tides strong salinity stratification and low turbulence result in SPM accumulation at the bed forming a fluff layer. At spring tides a fast switch between stratified and well mixed water column conditions caused by tidal mixing results in resuspension of SPM. During spring tides, the PSD’s are multimodal at low bed stress (predominance of microalgae) and monomodal at high bed stress (predominance of mineral sediment). At the storm initiation in autumn, the organic-matter rich fluff layer is depleted in a matter of hours, which is reflected in the change in modality of the PSD’s. Once the resuspended material is dominated by the mineral clay fraction, the PSD turns sharply monomodal. During winter monomodal PSD’s are recorded during calm weather conditions. The particles in suspension are then relatively spherical flocs of low density. During the winter storm, the fluff layer, which is much thinner than in autumn, is depleted very fast. This study shows the importance of organic matter in the transport of mineral sediment particles in coastal areas. The dynamic composition of the fluff layer of the bed should be accounted for in erosion models. ...
The Norwegian Trench (NT) is the main pathway for North Sea water into the Atlantic Ocean and for Atlantic Water (AW) into the North Sea. The processes that determine the cross-shelf exchange through the NT are key to understanding the variability of the salt budgets in the North Sea. Here, high-resolution numerical simulations from Copernicus Marine Services (CMEMS) for two recent years (2022, 2023) reveal new sources of variability of the flows in the NT. We find that wind regulates the flows in the NT, particularly in enabling the outflow of the fresh-water river plume, the Norwegian Coastal Current (NCC), in the Skagerrak during easterly wind conditions. Strong NCC outflows are associated with transport in a northward direction into the Atlantic Ocean. Furthermore, intensified eddy activity at the surface is found during strong NCC flows, causing high velocity surface currents sometimes exceeding magnitudes of 1 m/s. AW inflows partly compensate the northward outflows, keeping the net transport of 2–3 Sv constant over both years. However, the magnitudes of the AW inflows are small compared to the NCC. AW inflows that are comparable to the NCC outflows only occur during northerly winds in winter. We show that the variability of surface flows in the NT is wind induced, but that the effects of the canyon-like shape of the NT and seasonality of winds and river discharges introduce more variable deep flows than previously considered. ...
Tidal models that incorporate satellite altimeter data have historically shown discrepancies in accuracy between shallow and deep marine environments. A recent study suggests that these differences may partly stem from neglecting the nonlinear tide-surge interactions in tidal analyses. In this study, we introduce a novel method for estimating tidal constituents from satellite altimeter data in shallow waters, leveraging a 2D hydrodynamic model that accounts for these nonlinear interactions. This approach substantially reduces the variance of unaccounted water level variability, thereby benefiting the estimation. A distinctive feature of our method is the treatment of prior model tidal constituents as stochastic, which helps manage the low temporal resolution of altimeter data by ensuring that unresolved tidal constituents are not updated. We tested our method in the data-rich northwest European continental shelf region, using the high-resolution 2D Dutch Continental Shelf Model version 7 (DCSM). Results show a substantial reduction in the standard deviations of residual water level time series in the shallow waters around Great Britain and in the German Bight, from 11 cm to 5 cm. In deep waters (>200 m), the median standard deviation decreased from 6.8 cm to 6.2 cm. When compared to state-of-the-art ocean tide and surge corrections from publicly available models, our method outperformed them in shallow waters (median standard deviation of 6.0 cm versus 7.5 cm), though the alternative products performed better in deep waters (median standard deviation of 5.5 cm versus 6.2 cm). An estimate of the accuracy at satellite crossovers resulted in an estimated total tidal error of about 1.5 cm (RSS VD). We acknowledge that comparisons in shallow waters are complicated, as alternative products do not account for nonlinear tide-surge interactions. Overall, the demonstration along-track tidal product developed in this study shows potential for improving the tidal representation in the DCSM model. In data-poor regions, the number of tidal constituents that can be reliably estimated using the method may be limited, and alternative strategies might be needed to evaluate the model’s uncertainty in representing tides. ...
River plumes transport large quantities of freshwater along our coastlines, affecting coastal dynamics and the movement of sediment and fish larvae. This study focuses on describing the local intra-tidal evolution of currents, stratification, and turbulence in the Rhine River plume in The Netherlands. While the mid to far-field Rhine River plume has been subject to a number of field campaigns and detailed modelling studies, e.g. on tidal straining, very little data exist in the nearmid field region. However, this region is particularly interesting due to the occurrence of plume fronts and internal waves and their influence on coastal dynamics. Moreover, river plume regions are often highly engineered. In the Dutch coastal region, several topographic depressions, sand pits, are present. Their number is expected to further grow as beach nourishments are increasingly used as a coastal protection measure against sea level rise. Yet we lack information about the impacts of such topography changes on the hydrodynamics within this system.

In this study, we present unique observations of the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation rate in the near-mid field Rhine River plume and a sand pit, along with salinity, temperature, and current measurements. The novel field data was acquired in April 2024 during a cruise of the RV Pelagia and covers a tidal cycle over two days during neap tide. The campaign happened to take place after a storm event. Two moorings with CTDs and an upward-looking ADCP were deployed outside and inside the sand pit and were complemented by ship-based CTD, microstructure profiler, and ADCP measurements at the mooring sites and close to the sand pit edges.

An analysis of the currents and TKE dissipation rate outside the pit reveals enhanced surface-layer shear and turbulence during higher wind speeds on the first day. At the same time, the density measurements show strong stratification that almost constantly withstands wind-induced mixing. However, a few disruption events in stratification are observed. These events indicate the advection of fresher and saltier surface water due to wind-generated currents. Furthermore, our observations show strong cross-shore shear emerging in the mid-to-bottom layers as a result of the stratification-induced modification of the tidal ellipse. We present how this shear reduces the stability and increases vertical mixing in the aforementioned layers. Additionally, we show events of increased turbulence, which we attribute to the passage of a tidal plume front. This front is indicated by higher surface stratification with simultaneously increased surface and bed shear stress.

Presently, we are comparing the measurements in- and outside the pit. While we expect an increase in mean stability due to the deeper water column and unchanged mixing input, local mixing may be significantly enhanced. Particularly around the steep edges of the sand pit as well as within the mid-to-surface layers, we hypothesize finding increased turbulence due to eddy formation and topographic internal wave generation. Furthermore, we are looking into internal waves generated ahead of the tidal plume fronts, which may increase mixing levels throughout the river plume. ...

Insights From the Rhine-Meuse Delta

The Rhine-Meuse Delta is a low-lying delta in the Netherlands that is subject to both salt intrusion events and storm surges. Typically, storm surges only temporarily cause increased salt intrusion and do not cause severe problems for freshwater availability. However, during the storm surge of December 2013, salt reached the closed southern branch of the delta and higher salinities were observed for weeks after the storm surge. The purpose of this study is to examine the mechanisms controlling salt intrusion in the Rhine-Meuse Delta during and after a severe storm surge event. A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model (Delft3D-FM) of the Rhine-Meuse Delta was developed that successfully reproduces salt intrusion for both normal and storm surge conditions. During the storm, high water levels in the northern branch caused a salt flux toward the southern branch. The southern branch of the Rhine-Meuse Delta is closed off by an estuarine dam, consequently salt was retained landward of the dam. Local stratification in the southern branch caused salt to remain in the deeper parts, limiting the effectiveness of flushing after the storm surge. In the post-storm period, salt was gradually released from the southern branch, raising salinity levels in an adjacent channel. The river discharge was only just below the yearly average, showing prolonged salt intrusion can also occur outside of dry periods. ...
Journal article (2024) - Tess M. Wegman, Julie D. Pietrzak, Alexander R. Horner-Devine, Henk A. Dijkstra, David K. Ralston
Salt intrusion poses a global threat to estuaries and deltas, exacerbated by climate change, drought, and sea level rise. This observational study investigates the impact of river discharge, wind, and tidal variations on salt intrusion in a branching river delta during drought. The complexity and spatial extent of deltas make comprehensive measurements challenging and rare. In this paper, we present a 17-week data set of a historic drought in the Rhine-Meuse Delta, capturing dynamics in a multiple-channel system in a wide range of conditions. Key characteristics of this low-lying delta are its branching channel network and complicated, human-controlled discharge. Despite the system's complexity, we found that the subtidal salt intrusion length, defined by the 2 PSU isohaline (Formula presented.), follows a power law relationship with Rhine River discharge (Formula presented.). Subtidal water level variations contribute to short-term variations in intrusion length, shifting the limit of salt intrusion upstream and downstream with a distance similar to the tidal excursion length. This can be attributed to the up-estuary transport of seawater, caused by the estuary adjusting to variations in water levels at its mouth. However, spring-neap variation in the tidal range does not alter the subtidal salt intrusion length. Side branches exhibit distinct dynamics from the main river, and their most important control is the downstream salinity. We show that treating the side branches separately is crucial to incorporate the highly variable downstream boundary condition, and may apply in other deltas or complex estuaries. ...
Abstract (2024) - Julie Pietrzak, Marlein Geraeds, Tess Wegman, Avelon Gerritsma, Martin Verlaan, Caroline Katsman, Alex Horner Devine, Dave Ralston, Wouter Kranenburg, Henk Dijkstra
Deltas are home to billions of people and are often highly developed and engineered systems. Extreme weather events such as droughts are a threat to deltas worldwide. During droughts salt can intrude far inland and threaten the drinking, agricultural and industrial water supply of many people. Under climate change the frequency of extreme events is expected to increase and the threat of salt intrusion may intensify. Here we use data and models to explore salt intrusion in the Rhine-Meuse Delta (RMD) during the severe European drought in the summer of 2022. The RMD is one of the most highly managed deltas in the world, with numerous interconnected waterways and an open connection to the sea at the mouth of the Rotterdam Waterway. The outflow of the Rhine River through the Rotterdam Waterway generates the strongly stratified Rhine River plume. Under normal conditions a salt wedge intrudes about 16-18 km inland on every tide. In contrast, under drought conditions in summer 2022, observations show salt intruding over 42 km inland and the Rhine River plume diminished in size. We explore the changes in estuarine dynamics during the drought using velocity, salinity and temperature data from various field campaigns near the mouth of the Rotterdam Waterway and within the delta, together with numerical models. We also compare drought condition observations with data from prior field campaigns during normal discharge conditions. Shifts in the relative strength of the dominant mechanisms of landward salt flux throughout the drought are explored and linked to the changes in estuarine response. ...
Journal article (2024) - Raúl P. Flores, Sabine Rijnsburger, Saulo Meirelles, Alexander R. Horner-Devine, Alejandro J. Souza, Julie D. Pietrzak
We present direct measurements of seafloor ripple dimensions, near-bed mean flow Reynolds stresses and near-bed turbulent sediment fluxes on a sandy inner shelf subjected to strong wave and tidal current forcing. The measurements of ripple dimensions (height, wavelength) and Reynolds stresses are used to evaluate the performance of a methodology for the incorporation of non-equilibrium ripple dynamics into the calculations of the drag exerted by the bed on the overlying flow (i.e., the bed stress) using a boundary layer model for wave–current interaction. The methodology is based on the simultaneous use of existing models for the time-dependent evolution of ripple geometry and for the wave–current boundary layer that enable a continuous feedback between bottom drag and small-scale seabed morphology, which determines seabed roughness. The model-data comparison shows good agreement between modeled and measured bed stresses and bedform dimensions. Moreover, the proposed methodology is shown to give better results than combining the wave–current interaction model and standard equilibrium ripple predictors, both in terms of bed stresses and ripple dimensions. The near-bed turbulent vertical sediment fluxes show good correlation with the combined wave–current stresses and are used as a proxy for the resuspension of fine sediments (d < 64 μm) from the sandy seabed matrix. Implications for the modeling of the resuspension processes and erosional fluxes are discussed in light of our findings. ...
Journal article (2024) - Hans Burchard, Matthew Alford, Manita Chouksey, Giovanni Dematteis, Carsten Eden, Isabelle Giddy, Knut Klingbeil, Arnaud Le Boyer, Julie Pietrzak, More authors...
11th Warnemünde Turbulence Days on Linking Ocean Mixing and Circulation at Various Scales What: Forty-five participants from 10 countries met to discuss contemporary issues of marine turbulence with a focus on the linkage between mixing and overturning circulation on all scales (https://www.io-warnemuende.de/wtd-2023.html). When: 17–20 September 2023 Where: Rostock, Germany. ...
Journal article (2023) - Y. Afrasteh, D. C. Slobbe, M. Verlaan, R. Klees, H. Guarneri, L. Keyzer, J. Pietrzak, M. Sacher, M. Snellen, F. Zijl
The main objective of this study is to develop and analyze an empirical noise model for model-derived coastal summer mean water levels (SMWLs) and use that to obtain a more realistic quality impact of combining hydrodynamic leveling and Unified European Leveling Network (UELN) data in realizing the European Vertical Reference System (EVRS). We considered three state-of-the-art hydrodynamic models for the Northeast Atlantic Ocean, including the North Sea and Wadden Sea; AMM7, DCSMv6-ZUNOv4, and 3D DCSM-FM. Moreover, we assess the spatiotemporal performance of these three models in representing coastal SMWLs. The empirical noise models are determined from the differences between observation- and model-derived SMWLs at coastal tide gauges. All three noise models show that the model noise is indeed correlated over sea distances up to hundreds of kilometers. At the same time, they all show a relatively large discontinuity at the origin (i.e., nugget effect); between 12.1 cm2 (3D DCSM-FM) and 16.3 cm2 (DCSMv6-ZUNOv4). The variance (i.e., covariance at zero sea distance) for these two models is 15.3 cm2 and 21.7 cm2, respectively. Averaging the water levels over three summers, lowered the variance and nugget effect for 3D DCSM-FM to 12.7 cm2 and 10.0 cm2, respectively. Our analysis also showed that between 30 and 50% of the variance has to be attributed to errors in the vertical referencing of the tide gauges. We lacked the information to assess what proportion of the observed noise covariances should be attributed to these errors. The performance assessments revealed significant variations over both space and time as well as among the three hydrodynamic models. The results suggest that there is still room for model improvement. In the final experiments, we used the noise model of the best overall performing model (i.e., 3D DCSM-FM) to reassess the quality impact of combining hydrodynamic leveling and UELN data in realizing the EVRS. The results suggest that not including the noise covariances leads to an overestimation of the total quality impact by 7 % and 8 % , when we average the water levels over one and three summer periods, respectively. ...
Under the influence of climate change, estuaries around the world are increasingly exposed to more extreme weather conditions. In recent years droughts specifically have been occurring more frequently and for prolonged periods. During a period of drought, salt intrusion is exacerbated, impacting the availability and quality of water resources and the estuarine ecosystem. As the impacts of droughts can be severe, assessment of droughts and their influence on the estuarine system is of great importance.

Using a high-resolution 3D coupled ocean-delta model we investigate the influence of the record-breaking European drought of the summer of 2022 on the Rhine-Meuse Delta and compare this to the estuarine response under average discharge conditions, putting the drought’s influence into perspective. Spatial patterns of stratification, mixing, and straining and their evolution throughout the drought period are studied by a salinity variance analysis. The progression of the salt wedge and retreat of the tidal plume fronts are examined and related to the changing strength of the individual estuarine processes influencing stratification. We show that as the tidal plume fronts retreat during the drought, we see a corresponding change in the structure of the salt wedge, demonstrating the importance of the coupling between the tidal plume fronts and the estuarine dynamics. ...
Journal article (2023) - H. Guarneri, M. Verlaan, D. C. Slobbe, J. Veenstra, F. Zijl, J. Pietrzak, M. Snellen, L. Keyzer, Y. Afrasteh, R. Klees
Both empirical and assimilative global ocean tidal models are significantly more accurate in the deep ocean than in shelf and coastal waters. In this study, we answered whether this is due to the quality of the models used to reduce tide and surge or the general approach to treat tide and surge as two separate components of the water level obtained from stand-alone models, which ignores the nonlinear tide–surge interaction. In doing so, we used tide gauge observations as partially synthetic altimeter time series, tide–surge water-level time series obtained with the 2D Dutch Continental Shelf Model–Flexible Mesh (DCSM), and tide and surge water-level time series obtained using the DCSM, FES2014 (FES) and the Dynamic Atmospheric Correction (DAC) product. Expressed in the root-sum-square (RSS) of the eight main tidal constituents, we obtained a reduction (Formula presented.) % when removing the DCSM tide–surge water levels compared to when we removed the sum of the DCSM tide and DCSM surge water levels. The RSS obtained in the latter case was only 3.3% lower than with FES and DAC. We conclude that the lower tidal estimates accuracy in shelf-coastal waters derives from the missing nonlinear tide–surge interactions. ...
Tidal river plumes dominate many shelf seas, transporting freshwater, sediment, nutrients, pollutants and larvae downstream. The Rhine River Plume is one of the largest in Europe, under typical discharge conditions it is dominated by tidal plume fronts in the near to mid-field plume and by tidal straining in the mid- to far field plume. Moreover, in agreement with other tidal river plumes discharging onto the shelf, internal waves generated ahead of tidal plume fronts are an important source of mixing in the river plume. We compare field data collected downstream of the mouth of the Rhine River in 2013 and 2014 under typical discharge conditions, with data collected in the near field plume during 2022 during a major drought. Together with numerical models we explore how extreme variations in freshwater discharge impact both tidal straining and the formation and strength of tidal plume fronts. Furthermore we explore how in turn, this influences the structure and mixing of the near to far-field Rhine River Plume. We use a 3D hydrostatic model of the Rhine River Plume and a potential energy anomaly analysis to explore changes in the mixing. We explore how the river plume adjusts to extremely low discharge conditions and discuss the possible impact on the transport of freshwater, tracers, larvae and fine sediment. ...
Journal article (2023) - Y. Afrasteh, D. C. Slobbe, M. Sacher, M. Verlaan, R. Klees, H. Guarneri, L. Keyzer, J. Pietrzak, M. Snellen, More authors...
All realizations of the European Vertical Reference System (EVRS) computed so far are solely based on geopotential differences obtained by spirit leveling/gravimetry. As such, there are no direct connections between height benchmarks separated by large water bodies. In this study, such connections are added by means of model-based hydrodynamic leveling resulting in a new, yet unofficial realization of the EVRS. The model-derived mean water levels used in computing the hydrodynamic leveling connections were obtained from the Nemo-Nordic (Baltic Sea) and 3D DCSM-FM (northwest European continental shelf) hydrodynamic models. The impact of model-based hydrodynamic leveling on the European Vertical Reference Frame is significant, especially for France and Great Britain. Compared to a solution which only uses spirit leveling/gravimetry, the differences in these countries reach tens to hundreds of kgalmm . We also observed an improved agreement with normal heights obtained by differencing GNSS and the European gravimetric quasi-geoid 2015 (EGG2015) heights. In Great Britain, the south-north slope of 48 mm deg - 1 present in the solution which uses only spirit leveling/gravimetry data reduced to 2.2 mm deg - 1 . In France, the improvement is confined to the southwest. The choice of the period over which water levels are averaged has an impact on the results as it determines, among others, the set of tide gauges available to establish the hydrodynamic leveling connections. When using an averaging period that can be considered as the least preferred choice based on three established criteria, the positive impact for France has gone. For Great Britain, the estimated south-north slope became 12.6 mm deg - 1 . This is larger than the slope obtained using the most preferred averaging period but still substantially lower compared to the slope associated with a solution that uses only spirit leveling/gravimetry. ...

Constraints From GPS and SAR Data on the 2018 Palu Earthquake

Journal article (2022) - Wim Simons, Taco Broerse, Olga Kleptsova, Nicolai Nijholt, Julie Pietrzak, Marc Naeije, Stef Lhermitte, Pieter Visser, Riccardo Riva, More authors...
A devastating tsunami struck Palu Bay in the wake of the 28 September 2018 Mw = 7.5 Palu earthquake (Sulawesi, Indonesia). With a predominantly strike-slip mechanism, the question remains whether this unexpected tsunami was generated by the earthquake itself, or rather by earthquake-induced landslides. In this study we examine the tsunami potential of the co-seismic deformation. To this end, we present a novel geodetic data set of Global Positioning System and multiple Synthetic Aperture Radar-derived displacement fields to estimate a 3D co-seismic surface deformation field. The data reveal a number of fault bends, conforming to our interpretation of the tectonic setting as a transtensional basin. Using a Bayesian framework, we provide robust finite fault solutions of the co-seismic slip distribution, incorporating several scenarios of tectonically feasible fault orientations below the bay. These finite fault scenarios involve large co-seismic uplift (>2 m) below the bay due to thrusting on a restraining fault bend that connects the offshore continuation of two parallel onshore fault segments. With the co-seismic displacement estimates as input we simulate a number of tsunami cases. For most locations for which video-derived tsunami waveforms are available our models provide a qualitative fit to leading wave arrival times and polarity. The modeled tsunamis explain most of the observed runup. We conclude that co-seismic deformation was the main driver behind the tsunami that followed the Palu earthquake. Our unique geodetic data set constrains vertical motions of the sea floor, and sheds new light on the tsunamigenesis of strike-slip faults in transtensional basins. ...
Satellite observations can help in the retrieval of constituents in shallow waters. Noise contamination, however, makes smaller constituents irretrievable and large sources of error. Throughout shallow areas, the constituent’s relevancy changes. For example, near an amphidromic point where M2 relevance drops, so does the potential of satellite contribution for improving its accuracy. Moreover, shallow waters are generally influenced by many constituents (>100). Accurately retrieving all these constituents with satellite radar altimeter data alone is not possible. Series length requirements imposed by the Rayleigh criteria to separate constituents are still unavailable.
Removing unwanted signals from satellite observations improves least-squares-based harmonic estimates, given an inversion matrix with the same condition number. This variance reduction is the core of the remove compute restore approach commonly used. First, residual harmonic sets are computed with the difference between observations and model background estimates through conventional or weighted least-squares. Then, the residual harmonics are added to the background model estimates.
Here we implemented a method that extends the typical approach by including model background estimate and error covariance in the least-squares step. This inclusion helps to weigh between constituents well represented in the model and those that must be updated.
To test the method, we designed a semi-synthetic experiment. First, we used tide gauge data to generate a satellite equivalent dataset and compared estimations between the two methods listed above and the model estimate. Next, we applied the method to compute tidal estimates along satellite radar altimeter tracks (T/P Jason) in the 2D Dutch Coastal Shelf Model (DCSMv6) domain.
Results from the synthetic experiment show that the second method produces consistently better estimates reducing RSS consistently through temporal cross-validation. In addition, it provides an effective way of keeping as many constituents estimates as the model series can resolve, adding the benefits of satellite observations. Finally, results from the North Sea implementation show the new estimates increase the variance reduction of satellite residuals across the whole domain relative to background tidal estimates. The range of improvements varies between 0 and 3cm, which is significant given already very accurate model background estimates. The benefited areas include the English Channel, the Irish Sea, the English North-Sea Coast, the Bay of Biscay, the German Bight, and the North Atlantic region close to the upper boundary of the model domain. ...

Anticyclones in the Caribbean Sea

Journal article (2022) - C. G. van der Boog, M. J. Molemaker, H. A. Dijkstra, J. D. Pietrzak, C. A. Katsman
Mesoscale anticyclonic eddies dominate the sea-surface height variability in the Caribbean Sea. Although it is well established that these anticyclones are formed near the eastern boundary of the Caribbean Sea, which is demarcated by the Lesser Antilles, the source of their anticyclonic vorticity remains unclear. To gain insight into this source, we analyze the fluxes of vorticity into the Caribbean at its eastern boundary using a high-resolution numerical model. We find that the anticyclonic vorticity in the eastern Caribbean Sea predominantly originates from regions where intense ocean currents flow close to the Lesser Antilles. More specifically, St. Lucia and Grenada are hotspots for vorticity generation. The local generation rate scales with the amplitude of the volume transport through the passages between these islands. This finding is in contrast with the view that anticyclonic North Brazil Current (NBC) rings in the Atlantic Ocean are the main source of anticyclonic vorticity in the eastern Caribbean Sea. Our analyses reveal that the direct contribution of the vorticity of the NBC rings is of lesser importance than the local generation. However, the collision of upstream NBC rings with the Lesser Antilles increases the volume transport through the passages into the Caribbean Sea, so that their presence indirectly leads to enhanced local production of anticyclonic vorticity. This process is an example of the importance of vorticity generation near topography, which is ubiquitous in the oceans, and expected to be important whenever currents and steep topography meet. ...
Journal article (2022) - Z. Safar, C. Chassagne, J.D. Pietrzak, S. Rijnsburger, M. Ibanez Sanz, A.J. Manning, A.J. Souza, T. van Kessel, A. Horner-Devine, R. Flores, M. McKeon
An 11 hours survey was performed on the 17th of September 2014 in the Rhine Region Of Freshwater Influence (Rhine-ROFI) about 10 km downstream of the mouth of the Rotterdam Waterway during calm weather conditions. Suspended Particle Matter (SPM) measurements were performed during a full tidal cycle, near the seabed, at neap tide, and samples were taken at 0.6 meter above bed for on-board analysis. The measurements were performed with (a) LISST 100X, a submersible particle size analyzer, (b) LISST-HOLO, a submersible digital holographic camera, (c) a home-made underwater camera and (d) an on-board LabSFLOC2 video microscopy equipment that used in-situ collected samples. The first aim of the present study was to compare the results obtained from the different monitoring techniques and to characterize the different types of suspended particles found in-situ. It was found that that the highly anisotropic particles present in the water column lead to multiple peaks in the Particle Size Distributions (PSD) found using the LISST 100X. Using the LISST-HOLO, underwater camera and LabSFLOC2 camera these particles could properly be imaged and meaningful PSD’s were obtained using these techniques in the size range > 20 μm. LabSFLOC2, LISST-HOLO and the underwater camera moreover provide information on the size and aspect ratio of particles. On the other hand, LISST 100X can be used to detect the fine fraction (<20 μm), a size range that is not accessible for the other techniques. From the analysis of the data on the survey day, three classes of particles were identified, based on composition rather than size (the sizes given here are purely indicative): (1) mineral (inorganic) sediment particles in the range size 5 - 20 μm, (2) organic/inorganic aggregates in the size range 20 - 200 μm and (3) organic particles in the size range > 200 μm. A large range of settling velocities (0.1 - 10 mm/s) and aspect ratios between 1 and 10 were recorded by video microscopy (LabSFLOC2). This spreading in settling velocities and aspect ratio was due to the different properties (shape, effective density and size) of the particles in the water column. The second aim of the study was to reproduce the flocs found in-situ in the lab and investigate the kinetics of flocculation between inorganic and living organic matter. Laboratory experiments were conducted with grab samples obtained from Port of Rotterdam harbour and living microalgae (Skeletonema costatum). The results of these experiments showed a shift in effective density upon addition of living algae to the sediment, which confirmed the flocculation ability between sediment and microalgae. The flocculation occured on a timescale of minutes and lead to flocs having a large spread in density for a given size, due to the heteregeous inorganic/organic composition of the flocs. This spread in density was at the origin of the large range of settling velocities for a given floc size observed in-situ, which leads to conclude that organic matter should be an important input parameter in sediment transport models. ...
Journal article (2022) - Carine G. van der Boog, Henk A. Dijkstra, Julie D. Pietrzak, Caroline A. Katsman
Because of its pronounced fresh signature, the properties of the northward-flowing Antarctic Intermediate Water (AAIW) affect the Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation. Hence, understanding modifications of AAIW along its path is important. Here, we analyze AAIW changes along its path in the Caribbean Sea and assess whether vertical fluxes from background turbulence and from double-diffusive mixing in thermohaline staircases can explain these variations. We deduce the occurrence rate of staircases (7%) and estimate the flux ratio (Formula presented.) from Argo float profiles. In combination with vertical fluxes from background turbulence, these values are used in a steady-state advection-diffusion model to estimate the effective diffusivity of salt that arises from double diffusion (Formula presented.). This value for (Formula presented.) is similar to observed values (Schmitt, 2005, https://doi.org/10.1126/science.1108678), implying the observed modification of AAIW in the Caribbean Sea may be attributable primarily to vertical mixing in the region itself. ...
Abstract (2022) - Marlein Geraeds, Julie Pietrzak, Martin Verlaan, Caroline Katsman, Lambèr Hulsen
Strongly forced salt wedge estuaries are known to demonstrate significant variability in stratification, currents, and mixing within a tidal cycle. Such estuaries also show strongly spatially varying patterns of stratification and mixing, and the processes causing this spatial and temporal variability are known to interact. As a consequence, the dynamics of these estuaries are distinctly different from well-mixed and partially mixed estuaries, and intratidal processes may play a more central role in the evolution of stratification.

The Rhine-Meuse estuary is an example of a strongly forced salt wedge estuary. It is very dynamic, mesotidal, and stably stratified. In this study, we investigate how individual intratidal estuarine processes contribute to the evolution of stratification in the Rhine-Meuse estuary. Data from recent shipboard measurements are used to assess their relative influence and highlight the potential importance of interactions between these processes.

From measurements in the Rhine-Meuse estuary we find that the availability of salt is determined by tidal advection of the salt wedge. Additionally, exchange flows transfer salt from high-density to low-density regions such as harbour basins and side branches while the salt wedge is advected through the estuary. The combination of the barotropic tidal asymmetry imposed at the river mouth and turbulence damping at the pycnocline results in strong shear and subsequent formation of mid-depth jets at the onset of flood. These mid-depth jets contribute to the transfer of salt by transporting salt from regions of higher momentum to regions of lower momentum. Furthermore, the measurements suggest that several bathymetric transitions locally generate internal wave activity, although the resulting turbulent mixing is not strong enough to erode the persistent salt wedge structure.

These findings underline the importance of interactions between intratidal processes on different spatial scales and their effect on the evolution of stratification in the Rhine-Meuse estuary. As an extension to our findings, measurements in the Rhine region of influence (ROFI) are used to further examine the role of the seaside forcing on the individual physical processes and the resulting intratidal variability of stratification in the estuary. ...