To address the important research question of whether implicit (bottom friction) or explicit (stem drag) dissipation models are most appropriate for the prediction of wave attenuation due to aquatic vegetation, the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) spectral wave model has been extended with an explicit frequency-dependent dissipation model for submerged and emergent vegetation. The new explicit model is compared to existing explicit and implicit dissipation models in SWAN, and the distinguishing features of each of the dissipation models are quantified. The present work verifies the implementation of the new and existing dissipation models, outlines their distinguishing features, and compares model predictions against experimental data. The emphasis is on the transformation of the spectral wave periods Tm0;1 and Tm 1;0 over a canopy. Model evaluation based on academic and laboratory cases allows for recommendations regarding applicability of the three dissipation models, where the new method has the broadest applicability, since it bridges the gap in applicability between the other two dissipation models. The implementation of Jacobsen, McFall, and van der A (2019; A frequency distributed dissipation model for canopies; Coastal Engineering, 150, 135-146) is publicly available in SWAN version 41.31B.

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We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM^® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with a (Formula presented.) turbulence model and the Volume of Fluid (VoF) approach for discriminating between air and water. Sediment transport is described in terms of bedload and suspended load transport. We show that the default divergence scheme in OpenFOAM can become numerically unstable and lead to negative sediment concentrations, and propose a solution to avoid this problem. The model performance is assessed in terms of surface elevation, flow velocities, runup, suspended sediment concentrations, bed profile evolution and sediment transport volumes by comparing with measurements of field-scale (wave height of 0.6 m) solitary waves. The model shows reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and predicts the correct sediment transport volumes, although the deposition is predicted more onshore compared to the measurements. This is partially attributed to an overprediction of the runup. The model shows that the suspended sediment concentration displays a strong vertical dependence. These results show the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone, particularly with respect to vertical structures in the flow and suspended sediment transport.

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This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is employed to derive a set of quasi-Eulerian mean three-dimensional equations of motion, where effects of the waves are included through source terms. The obtained equations are expressed to the second-order of wave amplitude. Whereas the classical Eulerian-mean equations of motion are only applicable below the wave trough, the new equations are valid until the mean water surface even in the presence of finite-amplitude surface waves. A two-dimensional numerical model (2DV model) is developed to validate the new set of equations of motion. The 2DV model passes the test of steady monochromatic waves propagating over a slope without dissipation (adiabatic condition). This is a primary test for equations of mean motion with a known analytical solution. In addition to this, experimental data for the interaction between random waves and a mean current in both non-breaking and breaking waves are employed to validate the 2DV model. As shown by this successful implementation and validation, the implementation of these equations in any 3D model code is straightforward and may be expected to provide consistent results from deep water to the surf zone, under both weak and strong ambient currents.@en

Floating offshore wind platforms may be subjected to severe sea states, which include both steep and long waves. The hydrodynamic models used in the offshore industry are typically based on potential-flow theory and/or Morison's equation. These methods are computationally efficient and can be applied in global dynamic analysis considering wind loads and mooring system dynamics. However, they may not capture important nonlinearities in extreme situations. The present work compares a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT), based on the viscous Navier-Stokes equations, and a second-order potential-flow model for such situations. A comparison of the NWT performance with the experimental data is first completed for a moored vertical floating cylinder. The OC5-semisubmersible floating platform is then modeled numerically both in this nonlinear NWT and using a second-order potential-flow based solver. To test both models, they are subjected to nonsteep waves and the response in heave and pitch is compared with the experimental data. More extreme conditions are examined with both models. Their comparison shows that if the structure is excited at its heave natural frequency, the dependence of the response in heave on the wave height and the viscous effects cannot be captured by the adjusted potential-flow based model. However, closer to the inertia dominated region, the two models yield similar responses in pitch and heave.

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The work presents an experimental investigation into the motion of and hydrodynamic forces along a single flexible stem in regular waves. The experiment covers a large range in relevant non-dimensional parameters: the drag-to-stiffness ratio, the inertia-to-stiffness ratio, the Keulegan-Carpenter number and the Reynolds number. The two first parameters relate to the response of the stem in waves and thus account for material properties, while the two last parameters are relevant for hydrodynamic forces on the stem. The displacement of the stem was captured with a digital video camera and the displacement along the stem was captured for every 2.5 mm at 25 Hz. This unique laboratory data set allowed for the following analyses: (i) Determination of the relevant non-dimensional parameter to predict the stem motion and shape. (ii) A direct comparison between the measured force for mimics of two lengths (0.15 m and 0.30 m) illustrating the force reduction potential for flexible mimics. (iii) Direct evaluation of the average force coefficients (drag) and (inertia) for the flexible stems. (iv) The distributed external hydrodynamic loading and the internal shear forces were estimated from the laboratory experiments. The distribution of the shear force helped to understand the breakage mechanisms of flexible stems. (v) A linkage between phase lags and internal shear forces was suggested. The data set is considered valuable as validation material for numerical models of stem motion in waves.

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In the densely populated Rhine-Meuse Delta in the Netherlands, deep scour holes develop very suddenly. The holes may form a potential risk for the stability of surrounding riverbanks, dikes, bridges, tunnels and buildings, risking flooding of the hinterland. Approximately 40% of the scour holes in the delta are found to be (partially) caused by the composition of the subsoil@en

In this work, a CFD model (OpenFOAM) is extended to allow for the exchange of sediment between the inside of porous structures and the outside. This exploratory extended model is applied to simulate the morphological change around and under toe structures, as are often used in rock armoured coastal structures. Both the dimensions of the toe structure and the hydraulic loading are varied to investigate their effect on the simulated scour.

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Wave loads on crest walls on top of rubble mound structures determine the size of these crest walls. For the design of crest walls some design guidelines exist, but their validity is limited to particular designs of the cross section (berm, no berm, toe, armour layout, protruding crest element, etc). The present work addresses the validation of OpenFoam/waves2Foam for the prediction of integrated forces on crest wall elements against a new set of experimental data in order to obtain a numerical model that can be applied for a wider field of application than the existing empirical guidelines. One key concern for the accurate modelling of wave loads is the spurious entrapment of air between the water surface and structural elements. The solution developed for this problem is a boundary condition that allows for air ventilation, while enforcing a predefined head loss characteristic. Compared to the existing technique of introducing small meshed tubes through the structure, the new method does not lead to excessive time-step limitations and is therefore more efficient (a practical case was accelerated by a factor 20). The new boundary condition is validated against experimental data of forces on bridge decks with girders. Subsequently, the numerical model is validated against experimental data for loads on crest wall elements from new experiments conducted in a wave flume. The comparison between numerical and experimental data is made both in the time domain and as probability of exceedance. Special emphasis is given to the openness of the faces of the crest wall to mimic the effect of mixing of water and air during the wave impact. Finally, the validated model is applied to evaluate the forces on crest walls as a function of the elevation of the crest wall with respect to the still-water level. This effect is of interest, since the level of the crest wall element is only tested to a limited extent in laboratory experiments and the bottom face was mainly wetted or submerged during these tests (existing empirical formulations). The numerical results are compared to an empirical design formulation [Pedersen, 1996] and conclusions on the general applicability of this particular empirical design formulation are presented. The effect of the shape of the wave spectrum on the resulting forces is investigated in a preliminary fashion.

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This paper will address the validation and application of a volume of fluid method for coastal structures under the influence of normal incident irregular wave fields. Several physical processes will be addressed as part of the validation process, namely: (i)wave reflection from permeable and impermeable structures, (ii) wave transformation over a small shoal, (iii) wave damping inside of a permeable structure, (iv) the resulting wave induced internal setup and (v)wave induced forces. The numerical model will be validated against a multiple of experimental data sets for two dimensional coastal problems. The impact of air-relief gaps on the modelled wave induced pressures on a crest wall is analysed for the two dimensional layout of the structure. This is analysed to study the importance of the cushion effect from the incompressible air phase. Subsequent to the validation of the numerical model the internal setup in permeable coastal structures is given separate attention. A combination of an analytical prediction of the magnitude of the internal setup and numerical results is used to derive numerically based empirical formulae for the magnitude and the time scale of the internal setup. The formulae include the effects of wave height, wave period, material properties of the coastal structure and the dimensions of the structure.

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