José A. Á. Antolínez
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36 records found
1
Compound flood characterisation and structural reliability
A vine-copula approach to caisson design in the Mekong Delta
In the deterministic track, Generalised Pareto Distributions were fitted to Peak-over-Threshold exceedances of five environmental drivers (Hs, Tp, U10, hsurge, hriver) to establish univariate design values for a 100-year return period in the deterministic baseline. In the probabilistic track, the joint occurrence of environmental drivers is instead captured using a vine-copula: a multivariate model that decomposes the dependence structure between many variables into a network of simpler bivariate building blocks (pair-copulas), allowing realistic joint scenarios to be simulated. A seven-dimensional regular vine-copula (environmental drivers, θwind, and θwave) was fitted to n = 77 overlapping, concomitant observations of extreme surge events, using Dißmann's algorithm to model the multivariate dependence structure between the input boundary conditions. From this vine-copula, N = 10,000 synthetic weather events were generated, of which a representative subset of M = 200 cases, selected through the Maximum Dissimilarity Algorithm (MDA), was propagated through a SFINCS hydrodynamic model. Downscaling through MDA was necessary as direct Monte Carlo propagation of all N samples through SFINCS is computationally infeasible. The subset size M = 200 was adopted following a convergence study which balanced surrogate accuracy against computational cost.
Within the probabilistic track, two methodologically distinct surrogate models were then trained on the resulting SFINCS input--output pairs to upscale the M = 200 simulated cases back to the full population of synthetic loadcases. The first is a vine-copula surrogate fitted to the joint 11-dimensional distribution of inputs and outputs, which, like the boundary vine-copula, models the barrier responses probabilistically and can therefore generate responses beyond those observed during training. The second surrogate is a Gaussian Process regression with a Radial Basis Function (RBF) kernel, a deterministic regression model that interpolates directly between the input boundary conditions and the observed barrier responses, without representing their joint probability. Both surrogates were evaluated at a newly drawn, larger Monte Carlo sample of N = 100,000 synthetic events to enable the structural reliability assessment.
Comparing the 11-dimensional surrogate vine-copula against the original seven-dimensional boundary vine-copula showed that several of the input dependencies weaken once the barrier responses are incorporated into the joint model, most notably between θwave, and θwind (Kendall's τ reduced from 0.65 to 0.43). This indicates that the dependence structure of the environmental drivers changes once local hydrodynamic responses are jointly modelled. The fitted vine-copula reveals that coastal drivers (storm surge, wave height, wind speed) are strongly co-dependent under NE monsoon forcing, whilst river stage is seasonally decoupled from these drivers, reducing but not eliminating compound flood risk. The vine-copula surrogate yields a probabilistic 100-year overturning moment of Mext,100 = 2,024 kNm/m, exceeding the deterministic estimate of Mext,det = 1,971 kNm/m by roughly 2.7%. Redesigning the caisson with the same design limits yields a required base width of B = 13.3 m, 0.8 m wider than the deterministic baseline of B = 12.5 m. This indicates an annual probability of exceeding the deterministic design margin of Pfannual = 3.02%. The RBF surrogate did not induce failure at the deterministic design margin, and yielded a redesigned width that is 2.2 m narrower than the deterministic baseline. No samples exceeding the deterministic design margin does not mean that the structure will never fail, but rather indicates that the current set of forcing conditions does not induce failure of the structure. This happens because, beyond the support of the M = 200 training cases, the RBF prediction is governed by the decay of its Gaussian kernel: the small fitted shape parameter (c = 0.10) for all barrier responses causes the predicted responses to collapse towards zero over a short distance, preventing the surrogate from generating responses more extreme than observed in training. As the two surrogates represent methodologically distinct quantities, they are better interpreted as approximate bounds on the failure probability than as independent estimates of the same quantity.
A decomposition of the dominant-side force into its hydrostatic and wave-induced components for the vine-copula loadcases exceeding Mext,det, shown in Figure 1, reveals a bimodal pattern: alongside cases consistent with the deterministic wave contribution, a second cluster exhibits a noticeably higher wave contribution to the total overturning moment. This is traced to a bimodal distribution of Hs at the barrier location combined with a reduced upstream hydrostatic force across nearly all exceeding cases, which lowers the restoring moment. This indicates that the increased joint load is physically driven by a shift towards more wave-dominated loading conditions.
In practical terms, the deterministic caisson design, which is designed with a design margin below the ultimate limit state, fails on rotational stability under the multivariate load distribution with a probability of 3.02%, indicating that under compound loading, the intended 100-year return level (corresponding to a failure probability of 1%) at the design margin can not be guaranteed. The results suggest that employing a multivariate probabilistic framework to quantify design loads provides a more robust basis for structural design, and that the assumption of univariate return values may underestimate the joint return load in a compound environment. This finding should be interpreted in the context of absent partial safety factors in the deterministic baseline: in code-compliant design, partial safety factors implicitly account for the joint probability of load combinations and model uncertainty, meaning that replacing the univariate assumption with a multivariate load quantification removes part of the conservatism those factors provide. ...
In the deterministic track, Generalised Pareto Distributions were fitted to Peak-over-Threshold exceedances of five environmental drivers (Hs, Tp, U10, hsurge, hriver) to establish univariate design values for a 100-year return period in the deterministic baseline. In the probabilistic track, the joint occurrence of environmental drivers is instead captured using a vine-copula: a multivariate model that decomposes the dependence structure between many variables into a network of simpler bivariate building blocks (pair-copulas), allowing realistic joint scenarios to be simulated. A seven-dimensional regular vine-copula (environmental drivers, θwind, and θwave) was fitted to n = 77 overlapping, concomitant observations of extreme surge events, using Dißmann's algorithm to model the multivariate dependence structure between the input boundary conditions. From this vine-copula, N = 10,000 synthetic weather events were generated, of which a representative subset of M = 200 cases, selected through the Maximum Dissimilarity Algorithm (MDA), was propagated through a SFINCS hydrodynamic model. Downscaling through MDA was necessary as direct Monte Carlo propagation of all N samples through SFINCS is computationally infeasible. The subset size M = 200 was adopted following a convergence study which balanced surrogate accuracy against computational cost.
Within the probabilistic track, two methodologically distinct surrogate models were then trained on the resulting SFINCS input--output pairs to upscale the M = 200 simulated cases back to the full population of synthetic loadcases. The first is a vine-copula surrogate fitted to the joint 11-dimensional distribution of inputs and outputs, which, like the boundary vine-copula, models the barrier responses probabilistically and can therefore generate responses beyond those observed during training. The second surrogate is a Gaussian Process regression with a Radial Basis Function (RBF) kernel, a deterministic regression model that interpolates directly between the input boundary conditions and the observed barrier responses, without representing their joint probability. Both surrogates were evaluated at a newly drawn, larger Monte Carlo sample of N = 100,000 synthetic events to enable the structural reliability assessment.
Comparing the 11-dimensional surrogate vine-copula against the original seven-dimensional boundary vine-copula showed that several of the input dependencies weaken once the barrier responses are incorporated into the joint model, most notably between θwave, and θwind (Kendall's τ reduced from 0.65 to 0.43). This indicates that the dependence structure of the environmental drivers changes once local hydrodynamic responses are jointly modelled. The fitted vine-copula reveals that coastal drivers (storm surge, wave height, wind speed) are strongly co-dependent under NE monsoon forcing, whilst river stage is seasonally decoupled from these drivers, reducing but not eliminating compound flood risk. The vine-copula surrogate yields a probabilistic 100-year overturning moment of Mext,100 = 2,024 kNm/m, exceeding the deterministic estimate of Mext,det = 1,971 kNm/m by roughly 2.7%. Redesigning the caisson with the same design limits yields a required base width of B = 13.3 m, 0.8 m wider than the deterministic baseline of B = 12.5 m. This indicates an annual probability of exceeding the deterministic design margin of Pfannual = 3.02%. The RBF surrogate did not induce failure at the deterministic design margin, and yielded a redesigned width that is 2.2 m narrower than the deterministic baseline. No samples exceeding the deterministic design margin does not mean that the structure will never fail, but rather indicates that the current set of forcing conditions does not induce failure of the structure. This happens because, beyond the support of the M = 200 training cases, the RBF prediction is governed by the decay of its Gaussian kernel: the small fitted shape parameter (c = 0.10) for all barrier responses causes the predicted responses to collapse towards zero over a short distance, preventing the surrogate from generating responses more extreme than observed in training. As the two surrogates represent methodologically distinct quantities, they are better interpreted as approximate bounds on the failure probability than as independent estimates of the same quantity.
A decomposition of the dominant-side force into its hydrostatic and wave-induced components for the vine-copula loadcases exceeding Mext,det, shown in Figure 1, reveals a bimodal pattern: alongside cases consistent with the deterministic wave contribution, a second cluster exhibits a noticeably higher wave contribution to the total overturning moment. This is traced to a bimodal distribution of Hs at the barrier location combined with a reduced upstream hydrostatic force across nearly all exceeding cases, which lowers the restoring moment. This indicates that the increased joint load is physically driven by a shift towards more wave-dominated loading conditions.
In practical terms, the deterministic caisson design, which is designed with a design margin below the ultimate limit state, fails on rotational stability under the multivariate load distribution with a probability of 3.02%, indicating that under compound loading, the intended 100-year return level (corresponding to a failure probability of 1%) at the design margin can not be guaranteed. The results suggest that employing a multivariate probabilistic framework to quantify design loads provides a more robust basis for structural design, and that the assumption of univariate return values may underestimate the joint return load in a compound environment. This finding should be interpreted in the context of absent partial safety factors in the deterministic baseline: in code-compliant design, partial safety factors implicitly account for the joint probability of load combinations and model uncertainty, meaning that replacing the univariate assumption with a multivariate load quantification removes part of the conservatism those factors provide.
Hydrodynamic Model Sensitivity under Climate Change for Sustainable Aquaculture
Epistemic Uncertainty Analysis of Open Boundary Conditions in Bantry Bay under SSP5-8.5
Physically bounded distributions for temperature and salinity change were built from the pooled projections of four CMIP6 models, and for sea-level rise from the NASA IPCC AR6 percentile bands. A candidate pool of 5,000 parameter combinations was generated by inverse-transform sampling from these
distributions, from which the Maximum Dissimilarity Algorithm selected a final, space-filling ensemble of 50 members. Each member was applied to the 2022 baseline simulation through the delta-change method, superimposing the sampled temperature, salinity, and sea-level offsets onto the observed
boundary forcing to represent plausible 2075 conditions.
The findings show that the bay is boundary-controlled: mean salinity, mean temperature, and mean water level are each governed almost exclusively by their own boundary offset, with no response meaningfully shaped by more than one driver. Salinity uncertainty is small and stable throughout the year,
while temperature uncertainty is seasonal, concentrated in the summer tail, where the ensemble median already exceeds the kelp thermal threshold. This extreme regime tells a more complex story than the mean: thermal stress at cultivation sites is not driven by warming alone, but by the interaction of
local freshening and sea-level rise, with the highest-risk scenarios arising from moderate to low warming compounded by strong freshening rather than warming in isolation. Spatially, the boundary-driven fields are close to uniform across the bay, yet thermal stress itself concentrates in the inner bay. Sea
level rise itself functions primarily as a mean-state shift, with no measurable change to the bay’s tidal range.
This work demonstrates that in data-limited coastal systems, boundary uncertainty, rather than internal model complexity, is what dominates the predictive picture, and that resolving it requires more than a simple temperature projection. Climate-risk assessments for surface aquaculture must account for the complex interplay of multiple physical drivers, as the conditions most likely to cause biological stress arise from their interaction rather than from any single driver in isolation. This probabilistic workflow is designed to be directly transferable to other demonstration sites within the PHAROS project network
and beyond. ...
Physically bounded distributions for temperature and salinity change were built from the pooled projections of four CMIP6 models, and for sea-level rise from the NASA IPCC AR6 percentile bands. A candidate pool of 5,000 parameter combinations was generated by inverse-transform sampling from these
distributions, from which the Maximum Dissimilarity Algorithm selected a final, space-filling ensemble of 50 members. Each member was applied to the 2022 baseline simulation through the delta-change method, superimposing the sampled temperature, salinity, and sea-level offsets onto the observed
boundary forcing to represent plausible 2075 conditions.
The findings show that the bay is boundary-controlled: mean salinity, mean temperature, and mean water level are each governed almost exclusively by their own boundary offset, with no response meaningfully shaped by more than one driver. Salinity uncertainty is small and stable throughout the year,
while temperature uncertainty is seasonal, concentrated in the summer tail, where the ensemble median already exceeds the kelp thermal threshold. This extreme regime tells a more complex story than the mean: thermal stress at cultivation sites is not driven by warming alone, but by the interaction of
local freshening and sea-level rise, with the highest-risk scenarios arising from moderate to low warming compounded by strong freshening rather than warming in isolation. Spatially, the boundary-driven fields are close to uniform across the bay, yet thermal stress itself concentrates in the inner bay. Sea
level rise itself functions primarily as a mean-state shift, with no measurable change to the bay’s tidal range.
This work demonstrates that in data-limited coastal systems, boundary uncertainty, rather than internal model complexity, is what dominates the predictive picture, and that resolving it requires more than a simple temperature projection. Climate-risk assessments for surface aquaculture must account for the complex interplay of multiple physical drivers, as the conditions most likely to cause biological stress arise from their interaction rather than from any single driver in isolation. This probabilistic workflow is designed to be directly transferable to other demonstration sites within the PHAROS project network
and beyond.
A Combined Observational and Modelling Approach to Meteotsunamis
Case Study of 29 May 2017 Meteotsunami at the Dutch Coast
The meteotsunami of 29 May 2017 provides an opportunity to investigate the extent to which current available models can approximate the reproduce observed meteotsunami characteristics, as well as improve the understanding of meteotsunami dynamics along the Dutch coast. To achieve this, sea level and atmospheric pressure records from predominantly Dutch monitoring stations were analyzed using wavelet and spectral analysis to identify key characteristics of the event, including its dominant periods. These findings were subsequently used to reconstruct the 2017 meteotsunami through coupled atmospheric pressure forcing and numerical ocean modelling. The reconstructed model was evaluated through comparisons with available observations and was found to reproduce the timing and order of magnitude of the observed meteotsunami response with reasonable accuracy. Following the reconstruction, a series of scenario experiments was performed in which atmospheric disturbance speed and propagation direction were systematically varied.
The scenario experiments identified a favorable atmospheric disturbance speed range of ca. 60-70 km hr⁻¹, in which the strongest wave amplification occurred across most stations. In contrast, directional sensitivity varied considerably along the Dutch coast. Stations located along the southern Dutch coast exhibited the strongest amplification for disturbances arriving from the north, whereas stations further north were generally more sensitive to disturbances arriving from the southwest. The results further indicate a gradual transition in directional sensitivity from the southern to the northern Dutch coast, highlighting the influence of local coastal geometry and exposure on meteotsunami amplification.
Overall, the results confirm that meteotsunami amplification along the Dutch coast is governed by a combination of regional resonance conditions and local coastal characteristics. Atmospheric disturbance speed acts as the primary regional control on amplification, while propagation direction and local geometry determine where the strongest responses occur. These findings improve the understanding of meteotsunami dynamics along the Dutch coast and provide a basis for future meteotsunami prediction and hazard assessment efforts.
...
The meteotsunami of 29 May 2017 provides an opportunity to investigate the extent to which current available models can approximate the reproduce observed meteotsunami characteristics, as well as improve the understanding of meteotsunami dynamics along the Dutch coast. To achieve this, sea level and atmospheric pressure records from predominantly Dutch monitoring stations were analyzed using wavelet and spectral analysis to identify key characteristics of the event, including its dominant periods. These findings were subsequently used to reconstruct the 2017 meteotsunami through coupled atmospheric pressure forcing and numerical ocean modelling. The reconstructed model was evaluated through comparisons with available observations and was found to reproduce the timing and order of magnitude of the observed meteotsunami response with reasonable accuracy. Following the reconstruction, a series of scenario experiments was performed in which atmospheric disturbance speed and propagation direction were systematically varied.
The scenario experiments identified a favorable atmospheric disturbance speed range of ca. 60-70 km hr⁻¹, in which the strongest wave amplification occurred across most stations. In contrast, directional sensitivity varied considerably along the Dutch coast. Stations located along the southern Dutch coast exhibited the strongest amplification for disturbances arriving from the north, whereas stations further north were generally more sensitive to disturbances arriving from the southwest. The results further indicate a gradual transition in directional sensitivity from the southern to the northern Dutch coast, highlighting the influence of local coastal geometry and exposure on meteotsunami amplification.
Overall, the results confirm that meteotsunami amplification along the Dutch coast is governed by a combination of regional resonance conditions and local coastal characteristics. Atmospheric disturbance speed acts as the primary regional control on amplification, while propagation direction and local geometry determine where the strongest responses occur. These findings improve the understanding of meteotsunami dynamics along the Dutch coast and provide a basis for future meteotsunami prediction and hazard assessment efforts.
Satellite-Based Observation of North Sea Wave Dynamics
Capturing Infragravity Waves and Spatial Sea State Estimates with the Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) Mission
The launch of the Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) mission presents a promising yet underutilized opportunity to improve coastal monitoring and support the validation of hydrodynamic models. Using Ka-band Radar Interferometry (KaRIn), SWOT provides high-resolution, two-dimensional measurements of sea surface height (SSH), offering spatial detail that exceeds the capabilities of buoys and traditional altimeters. While initial validations in the open ocean have confirmed SWOT’s capacity to retrieve SWH and resolve long-period waves, its performance in shallow, morphologically complex coastal seas remains largely untested.
This research presents a novel approach comprising (i) a multi-pixel match-up strategy for SWH retrieval, and (ii) the first satellite-based spectral analysis for detecting IG wave energy in the Southern North Sea. Through three targeted case studies, the study investigates SWOT’s two-dimensional SSH and SWH patterns, retrieval accuracy, and sensitivity to key processing parameters across varying sea states and bathymetric regimes. Validation is performed using in-situ buoy observations, platform-mounted radar measurements and numerical wave models to assess consistency, spatial performance, and retrieval accuracy.
By applying both single- and multi-pixel match-up strategies, our findings revealed the trade-off between statistical variance reduction through spatial averaging and the preservation of local wave variability. Similarly, for spectrally derived IG wave energy, different analysis box sizes were evaluated against platform-mounted radar observations in the Southern North Sea. Results show that SWOT-derived SWH exhibits strong agreement with buoy data (bias < 7 cm) and outperforms operational wave models during energetic events. IG wave height estimates also demonstrate good correspondence (MAE $\approx$ 0.9 cm), provided that residual noise amplification is carefully managed. This finding underscores the need for improved noise modelling in future spectral retrieval frameworks. A key uncertainty identified is the role of spatial heterogeneity, which induces representation errors due to the inherent mismatch in spatial and temporal scales between SWOT observations, in-situ buoys, and wave models.
Despite these uncertainties and other limitations, the results confirm SWOT’s capacity to observe nearshore wave dynamics with high spatial detail. The proposed configurations and filtering strategies offer a transferable framework for future applications. These insights support SWOT’s integration into coastal wave model validation, boundary condition improvement, and data assimilation schemes across coastal scales. Ultimately, this thesis advances high-resolution coastal wave monitoring by demonstrating how SWOT’s two-dimensional observations can enhance our understanding of spatial sea state variability, particularly during energetic conditions in morphologically complex environments. ...
The launch of the Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) mission presents a promising yet underutilized opportunity to improve coastal monitoring and support the validation of hydrodynamic models. Using Ka-band Radar Interferometry (KaRIn), SWOT provides high-resolution, two-dimensional measurements of sea surface height (SSH), offering spatial detail that exceeds the capabilities of buoys and traditional altimeters. While initial validations in the open ocean have confirmed SWOT’s capacity to retrieve SWH and resolve long-period waves, its performance in shallow, morphologically complex coastal seas remains largely untested.
This research presents a novel approach comprising (i) a multi-pixel match-up strategy for SWH retrieval, and (ii) the first satellite-based spectral analysis for detecting IG wave energy in the Southern North Sea. Through three targeted case studies, the study investigates SWOT’s two-dimensional SSH and SWH patterns, retrieval accuracy, and sensitivity to key processing parameters across varying sea states and bathymetric regimes. Validation is performed using in-situ buoy observations, platform-mounted radar measurements and numerical wave models to assess consistency, spatial performance, and retrieval accuracy.
By applying both single- and multi-pixel match-up strategies, our findings revealed the trade-off between statistical variance reduction through spatial averaging and the preservation of local wave variability. Similarly, for spectrally derived IG wave energy, different analysis box sizes were evaluated against platform-mounted radar observations in the Southern North Sea. Results show that SWOT-derived SWH exhibits strong agreement with buoy data (bias < 7 cm) and outperforms operational wave models during energetic events. IG wave height estimates also demonstrate good correspondence (MAE $\approx$ 0.9 cm), provided that residual noise amplification is carefully managed. This finding underscores the need for improved noise modelling in future spectral retrieval frameworks. A key uncertainty identified is the role of spatial heterogeneity, which induces representation errors due to the inherent mismatch in spatial and temporal scales between SWOT observations, in-situ buoys, and wave models.
Despite these uncertainties and other limitations, the results confirm SWOT’s capacity to observe nearshore wave dynamics with high spatial detail. The proposed configurations and filtering strategies offer a transferable framework for future applications. These insights support SWOT’s integration into coastal wave model validation, boundary condition improvement, and data assimilation schemes across coastal scales. Ultimately, this thesis advances high-resolution coastal wave monitoring by demonstrating how SWOT’s two-dimensional observations can enhance our understanding of spatial sea state variability, particularly during energetic conditions in morphologically complex environments.
Stability and Comparability of European wind–wave Climate Regimes for Offshore Renewable Energy
Historical Assessment and Near-Term Projection
The reconstruction pipeline employed Structure from Motion and Multi-View Stereo algorithms, followed by a two stage point cloud registration. Coarse alignment was achieved through Sample Consensus Initial, and fine registration used the Iterative Closest Point algorithm. In the two benchmark datasets, registration achieved sub-metre mean C2C distances: 0.790 m for Toronto, 0.626 m for Westkapelle. In the test dataset, the mean C2C distance improved from 10.287 m before registration to 2.025 m afterwards, with 95% of points within 6 m. DEM differencing, supported by JARKUS cross-shore transect profiles, revealed systematic elevation gains of up to +10 m along foredune ridges, primarily resulting from a combination of documented coastal nourishment and natural process between 1990 and 2020.
However, limitations of the historical dataset, including sparse image coverage, strongly oblique viewing geometry, lack of vertical imagery, and poor GCP distribution, introduced geometric distortions and inconsistencies. The resulting orthophoto contained substantial voids and warped features, particularly in urban areas and low texture surfaces, underscoring the challenges of dense stereo matching under suboptimal imaging conditions.
Despite these constraints, this study demonstrates that meaningful reconstructions of past coastal environments are achievable when supported by careful preprocessing, robust registration, and multi source validation. The proposed workflow offers a transferable approach for extracting geomorphic insights from historical imagery in other coastal settings. ...
The reconstruction pipeline employed Structure from Motion and Multi-View Stereo algorithms, followed by a two stage point cloud registration. Coarse alignment was achieved through Sample Consensus Initial, and fine registration used the Iterative Closest Point algorithm. In the two benchmark datasets, registration achieved sub-metre mean C2C distances: 0.790 m for Toronto, 0.626 m for Westkapelle. In the test dataset, the mean C2C distance improved from 10.287 m before registration to 2.025 m afterwards, with 95% of points within 6 m. DEM differencing, supported by JARKUS cross-shore transect profiles, revealed systematic elevation gains of up to +10 m along foredune ridges, primarily resulting from a combination of documented coastal nourishment and natural process between 1990 and 2020.
However, limitations of the historical dataset, including sparse image coverage, strongly oblique viewing geometry, lack of vertical imagery, and poor GCP distribution, introduced geometric distortions and inconsistencies. The resulting orthophoto contained substantial voids and warped features, particularly in urban areas and low texture surfaces, underscoring the challenges of dense stereo matching under suboptimal imaging conditions.
Despite these constraints, this study demonstrates that meaningful reconstructions of past coastal environments are achievable when supported by careful preprocessing, robust registration, and multi source validation. The proposed workflow offers a transferable approach for extracting geomorphic insights from historical imagery in other coastal settings.
A layered approach to mangrove-induced wave attenuation modelling
A 2DV OpenFOAM application
The model is first validated against flume measurements under a range of different hydrodynamic conditions to assess its capability in a controlled, well-measured environment. The goal is that by applying the Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes equations and a layered approach, a more realistic bulk drag coefficient can be calibrated for different hydrodynamic conditions. One of the objectives is to explore whether this approach can yield a stronger correlation between the bulk drag coefficient (Cd) and the Keulegan-Carpenter (KC) number.
Then, the model is applied to a real-world case study for the Mandai mangrove forest on the north-west coast of Singapore. his application demonstrates the model’s ability to simulate complex coastal environments, including variable bathymetry, forest extent, and wave conditions. A sensitivity analysis is also conducted to evaluate the effect of different parameters on the modelled wave attenuation
Results confirm the model's capability to accurately represent the vertical variations in vegetation structure and their influence on wave attenuation. It showed great agreement with the measured wave attenuation of the flume after calibration. Despite its expected improvement on the Cd-KC relation, it did not succeed in this, but it does reveal the impact of depth-variable drag forces and their effect on the velocity profile and wave attenuation. Furthermore, the case study showed its applicability to real-world coasts. Despite numerical dissipation standing in the way of any quantitative analysis, the runs in combination with the sensitivity analysis provided valuable insights into the model's behaviour and wave attenuation predictions. ...
The model is first validated against flume measurements under a range of different hydrodynamic conditions to assess its capability in a controlled, well-measured environment. The goal is that by applying the Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes equations and a layered approach, a more realistic bulk drag coefficient can be calibrated for different hydrodynamic conditions. One of the objectives is to explore whether this approach can yield a stronger correlation between the bulk drag coefficient (Cd) and the Keulegan-Carpenter (KC) number.
Then, the model is applied to a real-world case study for the Mandai mangrove forest on the north-west coast of Singapore. his application demonstrates the model’s ability to simulate complex coastal environments, including variable bathymetry, forest extent, and wave conditions. A sensitivity analysis is also conducted to evaluate the effect of different parameters on the modelled wave attenuation
Results confirm the model's capability to accurately represent the vertical variations in vegetation structure and their influence on wave attenuation. It showed great agreement with the measured wave attenuation of the flume after calibration. Despite its expected improvement on the Cd-KC relation, it did not succeed in this, but it does reveal the impact of depth-variable drag forces and their effect on the velocity profile and wave attenuation. Furthermore, the case study showed its applicability to real-world coasts. Despite numerical dissipation standing in the way of any quantitative analysis, the runs in combination with the sensitivity analysis provided valuable insights into the model's behaviour and wave attenuation predictions.
The surrogate model is trained with a synthetic dataset of 13,000 tracks generated by TCWiSE, that have been computed with SFINCS. Input for the surrogate model are key drivers of compound coastal flooding, including cumulative precipitation, maximum wind speed, and water depth at the river outlet, which are given to the model as scalar values. The results demonstrate that the model can reproduce flood depth patterns with a RMSE of 0.054 m on the original dataset and 0.069 m on a case study application. The CSI values of 0.829 and 0.776, respectively, are comparable to values reported in recent literature. Visual inspection of spatial predictions shows that the model performs well overall but shows localized error patterns, particularly in the western part of the domain, indicating that additional input features may be needed to better capture interactions in physical processes that occur in compound coastal flooding. From a computational perspective, the deep learning model runs approximately 100 times faster than the physics-based model SFINCS on CPU, with further gains on GPU. This computational efficiency allows for running more simulations within a given timeframe, enabling the exploration of an increased number of potential flood scenarios and providing decision-makers with more time to evaluate and respond.
Overall, the study demonstrates that deep learning surrogate models offer a promising alternative to physics-based models by providing accurate and faster predictions. Although the current set-up shows accurate results, there remains room for improvement through enhanced input representation, such as incorporating spatiotemporal information of the drivers or including additional hydrodynamic features. Further gains in performance and generalizability can also be achieved by refining the model architecture and training strategies.
...
The surrogate model is trained with a synthetic dataset of 13,000 tracks generated by TCWiSE, that have been computed with SFINCS. Input for the surrogate model are key drivers of compound coastal flooding, including cumulative precipitation, maximum wind speed, and water depth at the river outlet, which are given to the model as scalar values. The results demonstrate that the model can reproduce flood depth patterns with a RMSE of 0.054 m on the original dataset and 0.069 m on a case study application. The CSI values of 0.829 and 0.776, respectively, are comparable to values reported in recent literature. Visual inspection of spatial predictions shows that the model performs well overall but shows localized error patterns, particularly in the western part of the domain, indicating that additional input features may be needed to better capture interactions in physical processes that occur in compound coastal flooding. From a computational perspective, the deep learning model runs approximately 100 times faster than the physics-based model SFINCS on CPU, with further gains on GPU. This computational efficiency allows for running more simulations within a given timeframe, enabling the exploration of an increased number of potential flood scenarios and providing decision-makers with more time to evaluate and respond.
Overall, the study demonstrates that deep learning surrogate models offer a promising alternative to physics-based models by providing accurate and faster predictions. Although the current set-up shows accurate results, there remains room for improvement through enhanced input representation, such as incorporating spatiotemporal information of the drivers or including additional hydrodynamic features. Further gains in performance and generalizability can also be achieved by refining the model architecture and training strategies.
This report provides a consult for the concessionaire of this development. The process begins with a research phase, consisting of an area study, and the mapping of environmental and hydrodynamic constraints. Subsequently, stakeholders are categorized, as the development of a marina in a national park entails complex regulations from multiple organizations. The outcomes of the research phase are translated into specific functional requirements for the marina. These functional requirements are the basis for the next phase, the design phase. This phase begins with the formulation of a design vision statement, formulating the project response to local conditions. Based on this, three different conceptual designs with various technical solutions are developed. Through a multi-criteria analysis, the concepts are tested on their robustness in order to chose a final concept. This concept is then elaborated into a preliminary design. Presenting an overview of the marina’s facilities, including structural designs, operational needs, and capital costs. Finally, suggestions for future development
are provided, outlining the next steps to advance the marina to a next phase.
...
This report provides a consult for the concessionaire of this development. The process begins with a research phase, consisting of an area study, and the mapping of environmental and hydrodynamic constraints. Subsequently, stakeholders are categorized, as the development of a marina in a national park entails complex regulations from multiple organizations. The outcomes of the research phase are translated into specific functional requirements for the marina. These functional requirements are the basis for the next phase, the design phase. This phase begins with the formulation of a design vision statement, formulating the project response to local conditions. Based on this, three different conceptual designs with various technical solutions are developed. Through a multi-criteria analysis, the concepts are tested on their robustness in order to chose a final concept. This concept is then elaborated into a preliminary design. Presenting an overview of the marina’s facilities, including structural designs, operational needs, and capital costs. Finally, suggestions for future development
are provided, outlining the next steps to advance the marina to a next phase.
Using a methodological framework combining backcasting and design science principles, the study integrated stakeholder input (staff interviews, student surveys), technical data analysis, literature reviews, and expert consultations. Potential solutions across the domains of energy, water, and waste were systematically evaluated using Multi-Criteria Analysis (MCA) weighted by stakeholder preferences.
The findings indicate a clear pathway forward. For energy, prioritizing solar photovoltaic (PV) installations is recommended due to high local potential and scalability, contingent on initial detailed energy consumption monitoring. For water, the focus should be on implementing robust wastewater treatment to meet regulatory standards, followed by longer-term integration of small-scale desalination and supplementary rainwater/AC condensate harvesting. For waste, the primary step involves quantifying waste streams, followed by implementing an organizational strategy, such as a Zero Waste Grassroots Programme with source separation, composting, and partnerships for recycling.
The research ends with a phased roadmap outlining concrete short-, medium-, and long-term actions across all three domains. Successful implementation can transform the UNAM Sisal campus into a resilient, self-sufficient facility and a valuable example for sustainable practices in other coastal communities, though success depends on institutional commitment, securing funding, and establishing continuous monitoring.
Future research should focus on collecting reliable on-site data, testing pilot projects, and strengthening institutional frameworks to ensure long-term implementation, funding, and monitoring.
...
Using a methodological framework combining backcasting and design science principles, the study integrated stakeholder input (staff interviews, student surveys), technical data analysis, literature reviews, and expert consultations. Potential solutions across the domains of energy, water, and waste were systematically evaluated using Multi-Criteria Analysis (MCA) weighted by stakeholder preferences.
The findings indicate a clear pathway forward. For energy, prioritizing solar photovoltaic (PV) installations is recommended due to high local potential and scalability, contingent on initial detailed energy consumption monitoring. For water, the focus should be on implementing robust wastewater treatment to meet regulatory standards, followed by longer-term integration of small-scale desalination and supplementary rainwater/AC condensate harvesting. For waste, the primary step involves quantifying waste streams, followed by implementing an organizational strategy, such as a Zero Waste Grassroots Programme with source separation, composting, and partnerships for recycling.
The research ends with a phased roadmap outlining concrete short-, medium-, and long-term actions across all three domains. Successful implementation can transform the UNAM Sisal campus into a resilient, self-sufficient facility and a valuable example for sustainable practices in other coastal communities, though success depends on institutional commitment, securing funding, and establishing continuous monitoring.
Future research should focus on collecting reliable on-site data, testing pilot projects, and strengthening institutional frameworks to ensure long-term implementation, funding, and monitoring.
Coastal Erosion in the Progreso Area
Mapping the technical and social context to work towards a sustainable solution
The shoreline analysis that was performed using satellite imagery showed evidence of both accretion and erosion in the study area. A forecast of the coastline retreat showed that in the western part of the Progreso area, the number of properties that lie within 10 meters of the shoreline is expected to double within the next decade.
The findings of the social analysis and stakeholder mapping revealed a communication and knowledge gap. The communication gap occurs between neighbours, so among coastal homeowners, but also between them and the governmental institutions. There is a knowledge gap due to the need for knowledge sharing among coastal homeowners.
A solution for the coastal erosion problem in the Progreso area is only possible by first implementing a social strategy; otherwise, no physical measure will be effective. Thus, the coastal community committee (CCC) is proposed to address the identified communication and knowledge gaps, as well as the fragmented responsibilities. The CCC is a group that makes decisions about measures to improve coastal resilience and engages local residents and stakeholders. In order to physically reconstruct a resilient coast, the use of a Sandsaver is proposed for sand accretion. To achieve long-term coastal resilience, dune formation is necessary. The report includes a plan for testing this Sandsaver and also a plan for implementing the CCC. ...
The shoreline analysis that was performed using satellite imagery showed evidence of both accretion and erosion in the study area. A forecast of the coastline retreat showed that in the western part of the Progreso area, the number of properties that lie within 10 meters of the shoreline is expected to double within the next decade.
The findings of the social analysis and stakeholder mapping revealed a communication and knowledge gap. The communication gap occurs between neighbours, so among coastal homeowners, but also between them and the governmental institutions. There is a knowledge gap due to the need for knowledge sharing among coastal homeowners.
A solution for the coastal erosion problem in the Progreso area is only possible by first implementing a social strategy; otherwise, no physical measure will be effective. Thus, the coastal community committee (CCC) is proposed to address the identified communication and knowledge gaps, as well as the fragmented responsibilities. The CCC is a group that makes decisions about measures to improve coastal resilience and engages local residents and stakeholders. In order to physically reconstruct a resilient coast, the use of a Sandsaver is proposed for sand accretion. To achieve long-term coastal resilience, dune formation is necessary. The report includes a plan for testing this Sandsaver and also a plan for implementing the CCC.
This report presents an integrated vision and technical design for the sustainable redevelopment of the project site area, commissioned as an advisory document for the Ente Administrador del Puerto de Santa Fe (EAPSF). The project employed a strategic track, guided by four pillars, and a slope protection track, using a Multi-Criteria Decision Analysis (MCDA) to select a solution, resulting in a design containing both technical stability and a public urban concept.
The resulting urban concept, The Santa Fe Riverside Park, serves as a project embodying the strategic vision. The design integrates adaptive infrastructure, including stepped terraces and docking places, engineered to accommodate significant seasonal river fluctuations. This concept is supported by the delivery of a 15-year long-term roadmap. The unstable slope is protected using an ecosystem-friendly Articulated Concrete Block mattress system, improving the calculated sliding SF from 0.67 to 1.9, and achieving an erosion SF of 2.10.
Finally, the report provides the Port Authority with a strategic foundation of recommendations to realise the project.
...
This report presents an integrated vision and technical design for the sustainable redevelopment of the project site area, commissioned as an advisory document for the Ente Administrador del Puerto de Santa Fe (EAPSF). The project employed a strategic track, guided by four pillars, and a slope protection track, using a Multi-Criteria Decision Analysis (MCDA) to select a solution, resulting in a design containing both technical stability and a public urban concept.
The resulting urban concept, The Santa Fe Riverside Park, serves as a project embodying the strategic vision. The design integrates adaptive infrastructure, including stepped terraces and docking places, engineered to accommodate significant seasonal river fluctuations. This concept is supported by the delivery of a 15-year long-term roadmap. The unstable slope is protected using an ecosystem-friendly Articulated Concrete Block mattress system, improving the calculated sliding SF from 0.67 to 1.9, and achieving an erosion SF of 2.10.
Finally, the report provides the Port Authority with a strategic foundation of recommendations to realise the project.
Adapting Aquaculture for Sisal
Integrating social and environmental design for local context
Among the species particularly vulnerable to the degradation of sandy beaches are sea turtles, who rely on these habitats for nesting. These endangered reptiles play key ecological roles in coastal and marine ecosystems worldwide, for instance by maintaining healthy coral reefs and sea grass meadows. Unfortunately, climate change and human activity severely threaten their populations. Among the challenges they face are the flooding and erosion of their nesting beaches. Incubating nests require a narrow temperature and moisture window to develop, making them susceptible to inundation. Episodic erosion can destroy nests and change beach morphology over several seasons. Long-term, chronic erosion and coastal squeeze may gradually diminish suitable nesting beaches worldwide. Although both flooding and erosion are recognized as significant threats, they remain under-represented in conservation management and research. Nature-based solutions—such as turtle-friendly sand nourishments or restoration of coastal vegetation and reefs—may offer promising opportunities to preserve existing nesting habitats, and potentially enable sea turtles to expand to currently unused beaches. However, we first need to understand the coastal processes that enable and threaten sea turtle nesting to effectively design such solutions.
This thesis identifies coastal processes that govern the vulnerability of sea turtle nesting beaches, and assesses their implications for global habitat suitability and conservation. Specifically, it investigates processes related to nest flooding and long-term erosion, while also examining how regional coastal characteristics influence global nesting habitat suitability. Employing detailed local case studies and global analyses, this thesis integrates diverse methods—including field experiments, numerical modeling, remote sensing, statistical analyses, global datasets, and machine learning—to illustrate the broad potential of coastal science tools for sea turtle conservation, which are essential for developing an integrative approach to assess nesting beach vulnerability and inform targeted interventions... ...
Among the species particularly vulnerable to the degradation of sandy beaches are sea turtles, who rely on these habitats for nesting. These endangered reptiles play key ecological roles in coastal and marine ecosystems worldwide, for instance by maintaining healthy coral reefs and sea grass meadows. Unfortunately, climate change and human activity severely threaten their populations. Among the challenges they face are the flooding and erosion of their nesting beaches. Incubating nests require a narrow temperature and moisture window to develop, making them susceptible to inundation. Episodic erosion can destroy nests and change beach morphology over several seasons. Long-term, chronic erosion and coastal squeeze may gradually diminish suitable nesting beaches worldwide. Although both flooding and erosion are recognized as significant threats, they remain under-represented in conservation management and research. Nature-based solutions—such as turtle-friendly sand nourishments or restoration of coastal vegetation and reefs—may offer promising opportunities to preserve existing nesting habitats, and potentially enable sea turtles to expand to currently unused beaches. However, we first need to understand the coastal processes that enable and threaten sea turtle nesting to effectively design such solutions.
This thesis identifies coastal processes that govern the vulnerability of sea turtle nesting beaches, and assesses their implications for global habitat suitability and conservation. Specifically, it investigates processes related to nest flooding and long-term erosion, while also examining how regional coastal characteristics influence global nesting habitat suitability. Employing detailed local case studies and global analyses, this thesis integrates diverse methods—including field experiments, numerical modeling, remote sensing, statistical analyses, global datasets, and machine learning—to illustrate the broad potential of coastal science tools for sea turtle conservation, which are essential for developing an integrative approach to assess nesting beach vulnerability and inform targeted interventions...
Analyzing the application of the bed leveller for conditioning of mud
A laboratory and field research comparing the performance of the bed leveller and the water injection dredger for conditioning pre-consolidated mud in the Botlek (Port of Rotterdam)
Flood Risk Modeling Aided by Machine Learning Techniques
Using a Treed Gaussian Process for a Case Study in Charleston, South Carolina
First, the local physical processes were identified and their influence on the turbidity stresses and dispersion of the sediment plumes were discussed. Insight in the wave heights and wave period should be obtained to aid in the decision for the dredging equipment to use and their workability. Key processes to include for a representative simulation for the dispersion of the plumes were identified to be the tidal and wind driven currents over the depth. Another local phenomenon to consider was the run-off from peak precipitation events, as this results in high background turbidity levels. Analysis of local sediment samples is required to obtain insight in the fines content, required for the estimation of the sediment flux, and the distribution of particle sizes and the particle density to determine the settling velocity.
Insight in the work method and duration of the dredging cycle provides information to determine the temporal distribution of the source terms to suitably simulate the loss of fines over time, making a distinction for the presence of the source between day and night cycles and during relocation. The primary source term contributing to the release of fines, identified to be the bucket drip, was spatially distributed to simulate the relocation of the backhoe. An additional method step was introduced by estimating the local fines content for each source term over the dredging volume, resulting in a more representative approach for dredging volumes exhibiting a heterogeneous distribution of the fines content compared to using a single value for the fines content. The source terms were estimated using an existing method by Becker et al. (2015) and distributed over multiple sediment fractions, to include the representation of the smaller particles, affecting the
far-field SSC in the model.
The effects of tidal and wind-forcing were incorporated using a 3D model, while running different hydrodynamic scenarios to test the effects for a variety of flow conditions. The grid resolution was chosen to ensure an accurate representation of the spatial distribution of the sediment concentration resulting from the bucket drip. The source terms were equally distributed over the depth to simulate the gradual loss of the fines over the depth by the bucket drip. The selection of an appropriate formulation for the settling velocity, to account for the local hydrodynamic conditions and sediment characteristics, increases the representation of the distribution of fines over time.
The model results indicated that for both a stationary and relocating source term, an accurate
depiction of the average SSC values over longer time periods as days and weeks is simulated, while the relocating source tends to estimate peak concentrations more accurately, as the source location and quantity is represented more precisely. Turbidity thresholds, set for the Black Rocks project, were only exceeded on one occasion during the occurrence of a current reversal for the relocating source, but not for a stationary source. This indicates the added value of applying a more detailed approach to simulate the turbidity stresses. Following the suggested additions to the methods an updated approach to simulate the turbidity stresses by a backhoe dredger was proposed. Further research into refinement of the method, focusing on the spatial distribution of the source and appropriate spatial and vertical grid resolution, can increase the suitability of the suggested method for simulating turbidity stresses induced by a backhoe dredger. ...
First, the local physical processes were identified and their influence on the turbidity stresses and dispersion of the sediment plumes were discussed. Insight in the wave heights and wave period should be obtained to aid in the decision for the dredging equipment to use and their workability. Key processes to include for a representative simulation for the dispersion of the plumes were identified to be the tidal and wind driven currents over the depth. Another local phenomenon to consider was the run-off from peak precipitation events, as this results in high background turbidity levels. Analysis of local sediment samples is required to obtain insight in the fines content, required for the estimation of the sediment flux, and the distribution of particle sizes and the particle density to determine the settling velocity.
Insight in the work method and duration of the dredging cycle provides information to determine the temporal distribution of the source terms to suitably simulate the loss of fines over time, making a distinction for the presence of the source between day and night cycles and during relocation. The primary source term contributing to the release of fines, identified to be the bucket drip, was spatially distributed to simulate the relocation of the backhoe. An additional method step was introduced by estimating the local fines content for each source term over the dredging volume, resulting in a more representative approach for dredging volumes exhibiting a heterogeneous distribution of the fines content compared to using a single value for the fines content. The source terms were estimated using an existing method by Becker et al. (2015) and distributed over multiple sediment fractions, to include the representation of the smaller particles, affecting the
far-field SSC in the model.
The effects of tidal and wind-forcing were incorporated using a 3D model, while running different hydrodynamic scenarios to test the effects for a variety of flow conditions. The grid resolution was chosen to ensure an accurate representation of the spatial distribution of the sediment concentration resulting from the bucket drip. The source terms were equally distributed over the depth to simulate the gradual loss of the fines over the depth by the bucket drip. The selection of an appropriate formulation for the settling velocity, to account for the local hydrodynamic conditions and sediment characteristics, increases the representation of the distribution of fines over time.
The model results indicated that for both a stationary and relocating source term, an accurate
depiction of the average SSC values over longer time periods as days and weeks is simulated, while the relocating source tends to estimate peak concentrations more accurately, as the source location and quantity is represented more precisely. Turbidity thresholds, set for the Black Rocks project, were only exceeded on one occasion during the occurrence of a current reversal for the relocating source, but not for a stationary source. This indicates the added value of applying a more detailed approach to simulate the turbidity stresses. Following the suggested additions to the methods an updated approach to simulate the turbidity stresses by a backhoe dredger was proposed. Further research into refinement of the method, focusing on the spatial distribution of the source and appropriate spatial and vertical grid resolution, can increase the suitability of the suggested method for simulating turbidity stresses induced by a backhoe dredger.
Circular City Index
MDP Project Barcelona